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Overheating Mecool M8s Pro L and Pro + (and others ?) - Options ???
Lots of food for thought there, thanks for all the interesting info.
My 30mm maglev is super noisy. I have reverted to the 30mm Pi fan(67Ohm) + 33 Ohm resistor. Total cost $1.40 or less.
The KSD9700 look good. You will have to post if you do any experimenting on an appropriate value for On Temp as the outer HS temp will be lower than the inner displayed SOC Temp I guess. Sounds like a better option than a thermistor set up.
The IC buck/boost options are very interesting. Let us know how you get on.
They were probably beyond my needs/wants.
Slight corrections to my previous post - I thought I ordered a Pro L, but I didn't actually order one.
Now I remember why I haven't bought anything from GearBest in a year - their system and service is unbelievably awful. My chosen shipping method is unavailable, they tell me after 3 days via supp;ort message, but don't actually provide available shipping method in the ticket. I open a support chat to try to get some clarification, I get asked if I want to cancel the order, which I decline, but the order is cancelled away and I see no money returned to PayPal. Quite awful.
My 30mm maglev is super noisy. I have reverted to the 30mm Pi fan(67Ohm) + 33 Ohm resistor. Total cost $1.40 or less.
The KSD9700 look good. You will have to post if you do any experimenting on an appropriate value for On Temp
Which model MagLev? Sunon probably manufactures thousand different models at any point in time.
I was planning on dipping the KSD9700 in some cheap Chinese thermal paste and placing it on top of the heatsink. I don't think I'll be using the original heatshink though - I have accumulated quite a collection and probably have something better that fits (old flat Pentium heatsinks come to mind).
I don't have one of these yet - I just ordered an L - but I did also grab some KSD9700 thermal switches with the idea of having it close the circuit with a fan somewhere 40-50c. Someone earlier in the thread wanted to know how to turn the fan off when he goes to sleep.
I have a pretty quiet off-brand Chinese 40mm 12v that I scavenged off of some ancient device, can't remember which, that will probably be used, although I'm looking at some Sunon MagLevs if I can find a proper specced one. Note not all MagLevs are the same and the dBa ratings can vary wildly model to model, even of same dimensions.
I'll probably be running the 40mm fan from USB 5V to the KSD9700 via XL6009 buck boost module at some near-silent voltage. It barely turns on at 5v.
There are probably more appropriate tiny boost modules around, I just happen to have a bunch of these. Likewise, if you don't want to mess around with diodes and ohms gives you headaches, there are also tiny MP1584 adjustable buck converters (for stepping down 5v to arbitrary lower voltages) available for like $3 for 5.
Maybe in the future I'll look into increasing voltage as the temperatures demand.
I highly doubt I'll be keeping the M8S in its enclosure - it's exceptionally ugly, the cooling issues notwithstanding - and will probably just put it on a bunch of nylon stand-offs or something.
The parts above are a buck or two a pop and googleable.
Another interesting option, thanks...... found one for $1.24 USD, normally open and closes at 45 C, so fan only comes on at 45 C. But no speed control with this switch.
Edit: With my fan mod, when running idle, the temp is less than 45 C, so with this switch, the fan would not be running. However, when i receive my resistor/diode and install them, not sure what my idle temp will be. I do prefer to leave my boxes running 24/7 but with my fan mod, the noise is too much of a nuisance, so I shut the box off when no in use.
Trouble with attaching little bi-metallic switch is choosing right one ??
CPU Temp is internal SOC temperature and you need surface temp of heatsink. Need to choose switch on Temp probably at least 20°C above idle temp so that the 15° On-Off spread is covered and the fan just doesn't stay on all the time. I think it probably requires real world testing with a number of values for On-Temp for switch KSD9700
EDIT:
Looking at the available options 40°C is the lowest available temp so that would probably be the one to choose - or maybe 45°C or .... Someone may have a better idea ...?
I would still use a resistor, but have the temp. switch to save fan life.
Looking at the available options 40°C is the lowest available temp so that would probably be the one to choose - or maybe 45°C or .... Someone may have a better idea ...?
I would still use a resistor, but have the temp. switch to save fan life.
That fan is rated 23dBA - probably their highest rated fan at those dimensions. They have ones that are rated half that.
Not sure where you are looking but I got switches from 35C to 50C - and they had ones with even lower temps. From Pierre Omidyar's site - this forum is ridiculous with the censorship.
That fan is rated 23dBA - probably their highest rated fan at those dimensions. They have ones that are rated half that.
Not sure where you are looking but I got switches from 35C to 50C - and they had ones with even lower temps. From Pierre Omidyar's site - this forum is ridiculous with the censorship.
Thanks. I was just looking at cheap ones on the UK Bay !
OBS: Translated into English by google translator.
40x40x11 is the biggest HS replacement for standard box.
If you do not cut a hole or mount vertically the std. case is a great insulator !
See post 1.
You can find that 40x40x11 HS cheaper on the Bay.
Black Aluminium is just as good as Copper of same size.
May get away with no mods for Netflix streaming dependant on ambient environment and particular box. I don't have Netflix currently so can't test.
40x40x11 is the biggest HS replacement for standard box.
If you do not cut a hole or mount vertically the std. case is a great insulator !
See post 1.
You can find that 40x40x11 HS cheaper on the Bay.
Black Aluminium is just as good as Copper of same size.
May get away with no mods for Netflix streaming dependant on ambient environment and particular box. I don't have Netflix currently so can't test.
Thanks for the info! But for banggood the fast express to Brazil is much cheaper!
Final fix is with HY910 Thermal Glue or Arctic Silver Epoxy - Note both are permanent !
I'm trying to get some Arctic Silver Alumina Adhesive - not really interested in Silver due to its slight capacitance and the low profile of most chips I would apply it to - but having a hard time finding a vendor without extortionate shipping, and frozencpu's USPS First Class Intl option seems broken.
Have you actually tried HY910? How does it fare thermal performance wise? How well does it bond? Can it be removed like the OEM adhesive can? Maybe frozen?
I'm trying to get some Arctic Silver Alumina Adhesive - not really interested in Silver due to its slight capacitance and the low profile of most chips I would apply it to - but having a hard time finding a vendor without extortionate shipping, and frozencpu's USPS First Class Intl option seems broken.
Have you actually tried HY910? How does it fare thermal performance wise? How well does it bond? Can it be removed like the OEM adhesive can? Maybe frozen?
I have used HY910 and it seems very close to AS though I haven't done a real experiment.
I managed to remove one HS using a brute force twist with a copper plate as a twisting device (inserted into grooves in HS)
Thin application using "small blob and press" application method. The applied glue set hard and cracked when removal attempted. No guarantee it is always removable !!!
Note:
The 40x40x11 HS is held in place by the lid which presses down on the HS when screwed down. This means you can use a thermal paste instead of glue.
I use a 38mm hole in the lid as per earlier photos.
Saga continues. Noise was driving me nuts, had to do something while waiting for my fan speed control to arrive. I received a package in the mail today, and the packing material was like some rigid foam flat pieces of material. Perfect, I made a mattress to lay the fan on, hoping it will reduce the noise somewhat, helped a little. Also, I laid the fan on top of the box as it should be oriented, but the temp went up 10 C from laying the fan pointing down..
Hopefully the pics will help explain what I am talking about. One thing that confused my simple mind, was when I was first testing it, by just laying it on top of the my box that I had drilled holes into, it was perfectly silent.......... strange.
Saga continues. Noise was driving me nuts, had to do something while waiting for my fan speed control to arrive. I received a package in the mail today, and the packing material was like some rigid foam flat pieces of material. Perfect, I made a mattress to lay the fan on, hoping it will reduce the noise somewhat, helped a little. Also, I laid the fan on top of the box as it should be oriented, but the temp went up 10 C from laying the fan pointing down..
Hopefully the pics will help explain what I am talking about. One thing that confused my simple mind, was when I was first testing it, by just laying it on top of the my box that I had drilled holes into, it was perfectly silent.......... strange.
]
I think cool air straight onto the CPU works best for the CPU. Other parts will be a bit warmer but probably less of a worry.
Fan should be oriented the way that it works best in a given situation.
On my old tower PC I have both fans drawing cool air in, and others venting hot air out.
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