Help me please erro [0x30405004] USB burning tool

[Nebojsa]

Brand new Kingston micro SD card 8gb class 10, make the card again with Win32DiskImager and u-boot-orig.img.zip, no change with boot log.
Can't make Free Serial Port Monitor to display log, there is nothing on the screen, but everything is ok with Putty.

[bumerc]

That's really strange. Try shorting the two pins, as described here.

http://freaktab.com/forum/tv-player-support/beelink-aa/beelink-android-tv-box/gt1-ultimate/knowledge-tutorials-bh/636941-beelink-gt1-ultimate-short-pins

[Nebojsa]

Tried, no luck, Free Serial Port Monitor not displaying any log, Putty is ok.
What I have done:
New session-serial port monitor-select serial port of the device-check Console view-finish
got just white paper with blinking cursor, no log.
Does it matter which terminal emulator program I use, because Putty is working fine?

[bumerc]

I do not know Windows terminal emulators, because I work exclusively with Linux. If you have the possibility to connect your other box to the UART, we can check the connection of your PC and Putty.

[Nebojsa]

I tried to open my R-box pro but it's glued and I rather not to open my working box just to test connection.
Found another terminal emulator, Tera Term, and it's working, getting log and it's the same as with Putty.

GXM:BL1:dc8b51:76f1a5;FEAT:ADFC318C:80;POC:2;RCY:0 ;USB:0;EMMC:0;READ:800;SD:0;R
EAD:0;0.0;CHK:0;
no sdio debug board detected
TE: 147986

BL2 Built : 13:18:48, Dec 21 2016.
gxl g4fc4d4e - xiaobo.gu@droid05

set vdd cpu_a to 1120 mv
set vdd cpu_b to 1050 mv
set vddee to 1000 mv
Board ID = 6
CPU clk: 1200MHz
DQS-corr enabled
DDR scramble enabled
DDR4 chl: Rank0+1 @ 636MHz
Rank0: 2048MB-2T-18
Rank1: 1024MB-2T-18
DataBus test pass!
AddrBus test pass!
Load fip header from SD, src: 0x0000c200, des: 0x01400000, size: 0x00004000
New fip structure!
Load bl30 from SD, src: 0x00010200, des: 0x01100000, size: 0x0000d600
Load bl31 from SD, src: 0x00020200, des: 0x10100000, size: 0x00015400
Load bl33 from SD, src: 0x00038200, des: 0x01000000, size: 0x000a9a00
NOTICE: BL3-1: v1.0(debug):2e39a99
NOTICE: BL3-1: Built : 16:36:21, Sep 20 2016
aml log : bl31 normal boot !
[Image: gxl_v1.1.3154-065f772 2016-09-29 14:08:54 yan.wang@droid05]
OPS=0x82
8b a8 52 a4 2f 34 df e4 3 3c 95 50 [0.562509 Inits done]
secure task start!
high task start!
low task start!
INFO: BL3-1: Initializing runtime services
WARNING: No OPTEE provided by BL2 boot loader
ERROR: Error initializing runtime service opteed_fast
INFO: BL3-1: Preparing for EL3 exit to normal world
INFO: BL3-1: Next image address = 0x1000000
INFO: BL3-1: Next image spsr = 0x3c9


U-Boot 2015.01-gf3cbd70 (Feb 24 2017 - 22:51:16)

DRAM: 3 GiB
Relocation Offset is: b6ec9000

What else can we try?

[bumerc]

After the BL33 is loaded into RAM memory, it is decompressed by the BL31. The decompression does not work in your case unfortunately. I'm assuming a broken RAM memory.

[bumerc]

This is how the decompression of the BL33 looks like in the normal case:

[LIST=1][*]Load bl31 from SD, src: 0x00020200, des: 0x05100000, size: 0x0002c600[*]Load bl33 from SD, src: 0x00050200, des: 0x01000000, size: 0x00066400[*]NOTICE:  BL3-1: v1.0(release):a625749[*]NOTICE:  BL3-1: Built : 11:25:15, Aug 25 2017[*]NOTICE:  BL31: BL33 decompress pass[*]mpu_config_enable:ok[*][Image: gxl_v1.1.3243-377db0f 2017-09-07 11:28:58 qiufang.dai@droid07][*]OPS=0x82[*]wdt: reset registers![*]27 8e b6 0 d 30 da e4 d3 48 39 f3 [0.695945 Inits done][*]secure task start![*]high task start![*]low task start![*]ERROR:   Error initializing runtime service opteed_fast[*][*][*]U-Boot 2015.01-g2735815-dirty (May 09 2018 - 17:08:47)[/LIST]

[Nebojsa]

So, it's a hardware failure and nothing else can be done...

[X92-2GB]

So, it's a hardware failure and nothing else can be done...

I recently found my device had bad RAM... A bit of trouble shooting, and I am down to two things I can do before it is tossed into the rubbish bin.

not sure if you know how to bake a circuit board. But if you have a temp probably, you can use an overturned pie tin and place à board on a burner, on low to allow a slow ramp up. Once steady at 250° F watch for the solder to start becoming shinny, about 258 or so. Don't bump or shift, just be careful to set the board with something to raise so that nothing touches the chips under neath. Like a few penny's at each corner. Let it set after the burner is turned off, and cool.

should take 20 minutes to touch once cooled down.

The other option is to test voltage at every ceramic capacitor... 1.0v, 1.5v, 1.8v and so on around the RAM and CPU section, on both sides. If more than one does not show any voltage between each end, most likely a power stage died. You can test each output stage , near the square transformer with a round center.. There should be a ceramic cap near by to test from.

I have one cap not showing voltage around the memory area. Since I cannot find where it draws power from, I will start with tapping voltage from 1.0v at another cap to test with, after baking. If it does not correct the memory issue, I will tap from a 1.5v cap. If it fails, it will be tossed in the bin.

RAM is impossible to replace without an automated machine to extract and install chips from production boards. I worked with one, and the thing pretty cool.

[Nebojsa]

Yes, you are talking about reflowing.
I have the heat gun and I tried to reflow couple of times, graphic cards, motherboards, but without success. I even tried oven method. Made 4 balls of aluminum foil, put the graphics card on it, just make sure that is on ideal horizontal position, heat the oven on 250℉ (about120℃) and let it bake about 10 minutes. After, let it cool down for hour or so. For me, this never worked.
I take my laptop motherboard that stops displaying picture to repair shop and they repaired it with success, so it can be done, I know.
With help of bumerc I think that I have exhausted every software method for repair, so maybe it's time for hardware.
I may try to reflow memory chips with heat gun and see what happens.
I will post the pictures of motherboard, can you point out which capacitors do you mean?

https://s20.postimg.cc/n2byvafkp/IMAG3052.jpg

https://s20.postimg.cc/bpzddhz61/IMAG3053.jpg

[bumerc]

Small note - you have soldered VCC 3.3V, this pin is not needed for working with the uboot. And by the way - the UART connection works without having to solder the pins.

[Nebojsa]

Hmm, didn't know about VCC, will try without it.
Tried without soldering but the holes are little bit larger than pins and loosing connection when moving, so it's better when it's soldered.

[bumerc]

I do not solder the pins mainly because of the manufacturer's warranty. When connecting, it is usually sufficient to keep the cable slightly taut.

P.S. and please try again with the u-boot, 816Mhz, which I have sent you before the original u-boot.

[Nebojsa]

Do you mean u-boot from post #50?

[X92-2GB]

About capacitor locations... Under the EMI shielding. Mine was held by bent tabs. Some are soldered.

Basically if you can find rectangular grey/green or amber blocks that have solder capped ends, the larger sized ones are usually grounded on one end, and tied to the input voltage required by the device operation.

I think mine was heat related, as the operation worked for hours on end, until left over night, and the box locked up at the home screen. Once left over a day disconnected, I was able to flash and boot once more and configure for a days worth of function. Just to return with a frozen box at the home screen once more over night. Just progressively got to the point of no boot from SD card, gets partial screen initialisation with no activity, so I know the boot loader is trying to load code, just RAM is faulty, either by chip shift, cold fusion of the solder paste or I had a fuse blow to drive memory. Problem is my fuse, if there is one, looks like a chip resistor. Which may be the case. Some manufacturers use 0 ohm chip resistors as fuses. I just don't have probes small enough to test in some areas. Plus trying to replace something as small as a grain of sand is impossible for me, unless I go back into my old job. HA!

If it is under warranty then send it up back under RMA. I am on fiddling so far, as there is no other options, but to do all the odd hardware repair tricks before it becomes scrap.

Since all the power outputs are good, I can at least convert it into a power supply for testing, or driving hobby circuits. Just will have to heat it up and pull the big chips that are not needed, and enable the switched supply voltage stages to function, as the CPU controls some of the stages, for sleep mode.