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is the faulty hdmi problem been resolved?

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    #16
    Originally posted by jimac View Post
    Yes - but maybe too cautiously.

    I will have another go. I have nothing left to lose now anyway! lol!
    I've had mixed success "re-flowing" on sony ps3....
    I use a heat - gun paint stripper, first off I put blue tack on any close by components and cover with baking foil to reflect heat where not required. Then apply LOADS of liquid flux and heat that bitch up from 20 cm away in a circular motion till I see the solder becoming viscose.

    You could also try using a 2000w + hairdryer.
    Likewise use heat reflective tape instead of tin foil and blue tack.

    I'll admit I did bake a board once and it warped big time so if you try that support the board properly whilst in the oven.

    Hope this info helps you out....
    Minix Neo X7 - Wasser 1.0.4 OC'd - Kodi-helix with passthrough
    Beelink M8B - Wasser 1.0.3 - Kodi-helix alpha 2 + SPMC

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      #17
      Fixed.

      I am not convinced that the soldering was the issue.

      I think that the board in the center of the HDMI connector where the pins (that your cable makes the connection with) sit, is the problem. think that the pinssit too deep/flat in the grooves and don't make a proper connection with the cable.

      i found that pushing the center part up a little, then down a little with a small flat blade screwdriver, bent the pins a small ammount to sit slightly proud both sides of the center plastic part (WARNING!!!! you don't them want to show too much, as inserting the the cable will mash/bend them!).

      Perfect connection after that.

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        #18
        I received my Tronsmart S89H on Aug 14th and the HDMI port lasted five minutes of on time. Pushing up on the cable at an extreme angle would cause the port to wake up momentarily. I asked Geekbuying for permission to open the unit and inspect the HDMI connections to save them money and my time, but after much back and forth, they wanted me to return the unit and wait up to two and a half months for a replacement. I declined.

        I opened the unit and found the ground pins of the HDMI port to be very poorly soldered. (I have forty years of electronics repair experience). I re-soldered the ground pins, but this didn't fix it. I then dug out my 1/32" soldering tip and with lots of flux, re-flowed the HDMI pins on the upper side of the board.

        Problem solved.

        It has been running perfectly now for a couple of days always on and playing a 1080P video on a loop.

        BTW, I received a 2.1 version board. The heatsink on the cpu is only about 1" square and there is a 2" rectangular metal plate fixed to the bottom of the case with a couple of thermal pads on it.

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          #19
          MY friend has a no hdmi problem, does it need resoldering?

          We check everything else by just swapping my box with his and same cables ect.

          I assume yoe are talking about resolder connection not the bit holding it to board?

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            #20
            Originally posted by Dandroid534 View Post
            MY friend has a no hdmi problem, does it need resoldering?

            We check everything else by just swapping my box with his and same cables ect.

            I assume yoe are talking about resolder connection not the bit holding it to board?
            Maybe, maybe not. There are posts from people who had HDMI ports give up after a month. Probably due to heat buildup. I would leave it for now. Fix it if it happens.

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              #21
              Originally posted by FrankW View Post
              Maybe, maybe not. There are posts from people who had HDMI ports give up after a month. Probably due to heat buildup. I would leave it for now. Fix it if it happens.
              Sorry. Perhaps I wasn't clear. He has no picture from HDMI. The HDMI port doesn't work.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Dandroid534 View Post
                Sorry. Perhaps I wasn't clear. He has no picture from HDMI. The HDMI port doesn't work.
                Sorry my fault. I read that to mean that he doesn't have a problem. I blame the bottle of Merlot I am close to emptying.

                The problem might be the ground pins on the bottom. Mine were barely soldered. But the issue is likely the top pins.

                Now here is the issue. Does your friend or you have the skills and equipment to re-solder those tiny pins and are you prepared to void any warranty.

                You need a soldering iron around 40W or less, a flux pen or other liquid/gel flux and a 1/16" (preferably (1/32") flat head soldering iron tip (looks like a slot edge screwdriver tip). You probably don't need to add any solder. Just melt what is already there.

                You give the soldering iron lots of time to heat up. Remember that when working with low power irons, each time you melt some solder, you need time to heat up again.

                For the top pins, there in not a lot of room to work. A bright light and a 10X magnifying glass helps, 20X is better.

                Apply lots of flux, don't worry, flux doesn't hurt anything. It just helps the solder to flow. Note that you are not applying pressure here, just heat. You don't want to move the pins. Now touch the flat side of the iron tip to the first couple of pins. Count to two. Remove the tip, count to five. Touch the next couple of pins. Count to two, remove tip, count to five. Repeat until you run out of pins.

                You won't see much difference. But the pins might look shiny now instead of flat and dull.

                If your hands are a little shaky, clap your hands a couple of times hard. This draws blood into the hands and releases tension.

                Test the unit and if it worked, wiggle the cable. If it didn't work, do it again. If it still didn't work then you may need more solder. The drag soldering technique works well for surface mounted components.

                These videos show it better that I can explain it....

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                  #23
                  I also had a faulty HDMI port gave up after about a month orso, returned it to the shop i bought it from, will be receiving new one today, hope its a better batch. If this fails again im switching to NEO-X8 i think, hope thats better

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by FrankW View Post
                    You need a soldering iron around 40W or less, a flux pen or other liquid/gel flux ...
                    i have same problem
                    soldering iron temperature? 180° C ?
                    which of the following?

                    http://www.****.it/itm/Rosin-Flux-Pe...item2340495d8a

                    http://www.****.it/itm/Electroplax-R...item35d63866e7

                    http://www.****.it/itm/New-Flux-Pen-...item487069f0b4

                    http://www.****.it/itm/New-10ml-Sold...item338bfc0afa

                    thanks.

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                      #25

                      Buy the cheapest. They are all the same thing in the end.

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