Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Overheating Mecool M8s Pro L and Pro + (and others ?) - Options ???

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • clarkss12
    replied
    Originally posted by P.X View Post

    I hate noise too !

    I've ordered some of those little bi-metallic switches ...
    Just received my diodes AND resistors, now I am going to test with the diodes..... Two in series.... should drop the voltage by approx. 1.4 volts DC. Crossing my fingers.

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Originally posted by clarkss12 View Post

    I left my older "L" box playing live TV using the Emby app, all day. When I just came into the bedroom, the box was powered off and the red light was on. No idea why it was powered off. The modded "L" played without any issues, but I finally got sick oooof the noise and shut it off. I think I will retire it, untill I get the fan speed under contol.
    I hate noise too !

    I've ordered some of those little bi-metallic switches ...

    Leave a comment:


  • clarkss12
    replied
    Originally posted by P.X View Post
    You only need the TV on when you check on things ? The boxes use very little compared to a TV.
    I left my older "L" box playing live TV using the Emby app, all day. When I just came into the bedroom, the box was powered off and the red light was on. No idea why it was powered off. The modded "L" played without any issues, but I finally got sick oooof the noise and shut it off. I think I will retire it, untill I get the fan speed under contol.

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    You only need the TV on when you check on things ? The boxes use very little compared to a TV.

    Leave a comment:


  • clarkss12
    replied
    I should have stayed in ignorant bliss. If I had never installed the CPU Temp app, I would have never seen those HIGH temps, and my box runs great. I did have a few freezes occasionally, but not sure it was heat related or one of my apps that conflicts with the OS. Right now, I am running both my "L" boxes and will let them continuously run, playing live TV or watching my IP cameras. My modded box is running 37 C and my other one is running 80 C. It will be hard to leave my TV running 24/7 just for testing, I am cheap and watching my electric bill go up, is a killer.

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Just done some quick tests with a temp. probe stuck to the side of the L heatsink.

    Ambient 23.5°C
    Idle-Fan ~ Probe 31.6°C :: CPU.Temp 37°C
    Idle-FanOff ~ Probe 52.5 :: CPU.Temp 58

    So at a rough guess ...
    A KSD9700 Switch NO Contacts 55°C Closing Temp
    would allow the L box to idle with no fan and switch off after a switch-on due to higher temp SOC when normal idling was restored.

    Actual testing may of course give different results, and a higher ambient temp for the box locale would indicate a higher On-Temp for no fan idling.

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Resistor and you should be sorted


    I am using a 62 Ohm with my second fan so it is working at about 2.5V at a guess. 33 Ohm 3.3V was a bit too noisy for me with this particular fan.

    Leave a comment:


  • clarkss12
    replied
    Worse case, my older "L" also works with my Bluetooth Voice Remote........

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Originally posted by clarkss12 View Post
    Saga continues. Noise was driving me nuts, had to do something while waiting for my fan speed control to arrive. I received a package in the mail today, and the packing material was like some rigid foam flat pieces of material. Perfect, I made a mattress to lay the fan on, hoping it will reduce the noise somewhat, helped a little. Also, I laid the fan on top of the box as it should be oriented, but the temp went up 10 C from laying the fan pointing down..

    Hopefully the pics will help explain what I am talking about. One thing that confused my simple mind, was when I was first testing it, by just laying it on top of the my box that I had drilled holes into, it was perfectly silent.......... strange.

    ]
    I think cool air straight onto the CPU works best for the CPU. Other parts will be a bit warmer but probably less of a worry.

    Fan should be oriented the way that it works best in a given situation.
    On my old tower PC I have both fans drawing cool air in, and others venting hot air out.

    Noise is empirical in nature !

    Leave a comment:


  • clarkss12
    replied
    Saga continues. Noise was driving me nuts, had to do something while waiting for my fan speed control to arrive. I received a package in the mail today, and the packing material was like some rigid foam flat pieces of material. Perfect, I made a mattress to lay the fan on, hoping it will reduce the noise somewhat, helped a little. Also, I laid the fan on top of the box as it should be oriented, but the temp went up 10 C from laying the fan pointing down..

    Hopefully the pics will help explain what I am talking about. One thing that confused my simple mind, was when I was first testing it, by just laying it on top of the my box that I had drilled holes into, it was perfectly silent.......... strange.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	mattress for box.jpg
Views:	222
Size:	117.0 KB
ID:	718143Click image for larger version

Name:	Fan temp 10 C higher.jpg
Views:	229
Size:	121.4 KB
ID:	718144

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Originally posted by jebivetar View Post

    I'm trying to get some Arctic Silver Alumina Adhesive - not really interested in Silver due to its slight capacitance and the low profile of most chips I would apply it to - but having a hard time finding a vendor without extortionate shipping, and frozencpu's USPS First Class Intl option seems broken.

    Have you actually tried HY910? How does it fare thermal performance wise? How well does it bond? Can it be removed like the OEM adhesive can? Maybe frozen?
    I have used HY910 and it seems very close to AS though I haven't done a real experiment.

    I managed to remove one HS using a brute force twist with a copper plate as a twisting device (inserted into grooves in HS)

    Thin application using "small blob and press" application method. The applied glue set hard and cracked when removal attempted. No guarantee it is always removable !!!

    Note:
    The 40x40x11 HS is held in place by the lid which presses down on the HS when screwed down. This means you can use a thermal paste instead of glue.
    I use a 38mm hole in the lid as per earlier photos.

    Last edited by P.X; 04 April 2018, 09:13.

    Leave a comment:


  • jebivetar
    replied
    Originally posted by P.X View Post
    Final fix is with HY910 Thermal Glue or Arctic Silver Epoxy - Note both are permanent !
    I'm trying to get some Arctic Silver Alumina Adhesive - not really interested in Silver due to its slight capacitance and the low profile of most chips I would apply it to - but having a hard time finding a vendor without extortionate shipping, and frozencpu's USPS First Class Intl option seems broken.

    Have you actually tried HY910? How does it fare thermal performance wise? How well does it bond? Can it be removed like the OEM adhesive can? Maybe frozen?

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Originally posted by pégaso View Post

    Thanks for the info! But for banggood the fast express to Brazil is much cheaper!
    I do slow free post

    Leave a comment:


  • pégaso
    replied
    Originally posted by P.X View Post

    40x40x11 is the biggest HS replacement for standard box.
    If you do not cut a hole or mount vertically the std. case is a great insulator !
    See post 1.
    You can find that 40x40x11 HS cheaper on the Bay.

    Black Aluminium is just as good as Copper of same size.

    May get away with no mods for Netflix streaming dependant on ambient environment and particular box. I don't have Netflix currently so can't test.
    Thanks for the info! But for banggood the fast express to Brazil is much cheaper!

    Leave a comment:


  • P.X
    replied
    Originally posted by pégaso View Post
    For Netflix 1080p and 1080p H264 / HEVC videos up to 20 Mbps is it necessary to replace the heatsink? If this is needed here (https://www.banggood.com/40-x-40-x-1...-p-914845.html) does it fit the Pro L without cutting off the top cover? Or would that copper be better (https://www.banggood.com/Raspberry-P...p-1045808.html )?

    OBS: Translated into English by google translator.
    40x40x11 is the biggest HS replacement for standard box.
    If you do not cut a hole or mount vertically the std. case is a great insulator !
    See post 1.
    You can find that 40x40x11 HS cheaper on the Bay.

    Black Aluminium is just as good as Copper of same size.

    May get away with no mods for Netflix streaming dependant on ambient environment and particular box. I don't have Netflix currently so can't test.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X