Alfawise H96Pro Plus killed with 12V

[houndhunger]

Yes, I know, I'm complete idiot. Any recommendations? On plug-in 5V adaptor only blue light flashes, that's it.

[majkool]

It's not killed have the same issue with stock adapter.

[houndhunger]

One more time.
I plugged 12V adaptor to my H96 ro. Then I realise mistake. I plugged in correct 5V adaptor. As I said, only blue light flashes quickly on plugged in.

[majkool]

Didn't plug the 12V and have the same issue, blue light just blinks once after plugged in and thats it not more light from leds.
What is your original adaptor parameters 5V and 2A?

[houndhunger]

I think, I looked briefly yesterday, 5V 3A.
I think, I'm not sure, but I have tried different adaptor (had one available), same thing happened.

[ch3mn3y]

Are there an fuse on the PCB? If it got broken coz of to high voltage, it may be repaired, by replacing.

ZUK Z2 Pro ✓ᵛᵉʳᶦᶠᶦᵉᵈ

[gefattern]

Hi ,

what happens when you connect it to PC , any response ??? example "Sounds""Storage pop up" ???

greetings / gefattern

[houndhunger]

Are there an fuse on the PCB? If it got broken coz of to high voltage, it may be repaired, by replacing.

ZUK Z2 Pro ✓ᵛᵉʳᶦᶠᶦᵉᵈ

How does fuses usually looks like on PCBs like that?
Images of my H96Pro+:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/b3DYCQT96og6p2YF3

https://photos.app.goo.gl/stC7hkLRYN8ogl0o1

[majkool]

gefattern

No response, after plugging just blue led blinks and thats it. I've checked with multimeter and there is a 5.28V in pins from power and usbs.


Some guy changed the capacitor and it worked again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDo-aCmSfow
Maybe it's faulty in our box? Still searching 3A adaptor to check if thats fix the issue.
Other guy reballed chip and it worked again - but I think it can be expensive.

[unrealistic]

Hi, just received the same h96 pro+ s912 box decide to create and account to help, been looking around while waiting for it to arrive. I see you have a multimeter which is good as it means you have some electrical knowledge

I have the same board same heatsink as yours but different wifi module brand. If you ever get it working again, I modded my heatsink by using that sticky tape, stick it on double sided tape smooth tape, the white one you peel off after sticking so that you can peel this tape off easily too. then i use a pen knife and cut a smaller rectangle around the marking of the chip. I then align and stick it back down on the s912 and apply thermal paste on the center and stick back the heatsink. No need to use thermal adhesive and can remove again easily.

I dont think there is fuse in this board(Google resettable fuse and you can see all the green smt fuse, I have seen white one time fuse in dyson batteries bms pcb). There is still a cm7vll marking ic near those usb ports that i cant find datasheet on. Should be 5v input too(Just checked, it is connect directly to the 5v plug with the middle pin on the 3pin side Looks like you will fry a lot more components). Just not sure the max electrical input it accept. But test your 1.8v first. Processor is more important than usb

Please look at the image https://i62.servimg.com/u/f62/12/94/05/33/20180610.jpg

1) I believe you have fried your LDO since it only accept up to 5.5v Its a sot 23 5 pin package. Marking is DC=E2H on my board(TX6211B). I measured and it should output 1.8v
datasheet http://www.txsemi.com/Upload/TX6211B...1264794020.pdf

2) check the pinout voltage as shown in the picture. Ground probe on any of the usb port metal casing and positive probe touch the circled capacitor to measure 1.8v output. Check all the capacitors too especially the 10v cap near the plug that they didn't failed shorted, or you can remove it temporary. If you dont get 5v on the big ceramic capacitor then you have a short somewhere or a open circuit.
3) Pray and hope that nothing is fried on ic or component that are directly connected to the 5v electrical trace as it should be dead too.
4) Due to ground plane, i cant use a torch light to see where all the 5v trace go. But 1.8v should be used to power the S912. if you measure 5v coming out from the 1.8v pin, it means that it failed shorted. When you apply 12v, the 12v had been used to powered the s912 and the processor MAY may may(Got a tiny chance to live) be dead too as 12v vs 1.8v LOL You have "overclock it" 6.6 times.
5) report back you findings. it is interesting for me as i could have also make this mistake since i have those 36v 26v 24v 12v plug all look the same and could have plug a wrong one without checking the label.
Hope i helped.

[majkool]

unrealistic
I find your post really helpful and I'll check my box too.
Is it possible to catch you on skype or this forum chat for further support with multimeter check?

Could you comments in my thread also? http://freaktab.com/forum/tv-player-...range-symptoms

Edit:

unrealistic
I did 2 checks and this is what I got.

1st check: Checked if there is 1.8v output = failed
2nd check: Heated up these components with hand-dryer and I got 1.8v = passed (box is working for few minutes!)

Now what could be the problem and how to fix that to remove that issue? 220 10V capacitor could be the cause or maybe I have cold joints?

[unrealistic]

will reply to your thread