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K-R42 COOLING MOD

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    K-R42 COOLING MOD

    Hi guys i butchered my K-R42 android tv box last night in order to add copper shims and a heatsink with an 80mm silent fan.I had to heatgun the original heatsink off at a dangerous 250c and lever it off then with a flat head screwdriver,i then dabbed super glue in all 4 corners (small spots) on all chips and between the glue spots i added thermal paste in a heaped glob.I then pressed down onto the paste and super glue 3x 1mm depth copper laptop shims and then did the same process on the upper side of all 3 of the shims and pressed on and stuck down an asrock copper heatsink for a pc motherboard gpu.I then cut the K-R42 case lid with huge difficulty with a stanley knife heating with heatgun at 100c at times to cut easier.I accidentaly scored the front of the case by the power on button as the knife slipped during cutting.It does not matter i shall get some vinyl done for that bit,but any way in the pictures you can see that it looks crude but it works great,and also at the back there is a small bulge from the fan screw as hardly could fit it on being 80mm.But all in all it's an absolutely amazing improvement on performance to stock it glides through menus booting gta 3 takes way less time as well i noticed straight away, i shall get something going about it in a youtube channel in time but for now it's finding an app that can give me cpu temp readings as i cannot find anything suitable for this chipset yet that gives a cpu temp.I also sawed off the ring openings on the 2 corners of the heatsink and filed the cut smooth.


    The cpu shim was realigned before sticking the heatsink on so it was exactly in the centre



    The heatsink is on upside down but didn't care as was putting fan over it so irelevant

    Here's the bulging lid due to the screw,but it's still fine regardless.



    And here is the final look minus the fix for the slice on the case from the knife,but you get an idea for what has been done,i used superglue as was not waiting 6 days and paying out on some thermal tape or thermal epoxy.So far it runs great so i will keep it as it is for now.Hope you like it?Inow here that currently there is no way to access the thermal sensors to test temperature,this needs to be fixed asap if anyone can tell me how to get my temps then please let me and everyone else know as soon as you can please.

    Almost forgot to mention that in order to remove the original epoxy used to glue the heatsink down,i basically used a flat head screwdriver whilst still warm and scratched at it until it came off,then i wiped it down with isopropyl (99% pure rubbing alcohol),i did this when warm but not immediately after removing the heatsink at 250c though, as you'd move the solder balls about and the chip will disconnect from the board if the temp has melted any solder balls under the chip,be vary careful with heatguns as they have to be around 1" from the surface of the heated item and moving constantly in a circular or side to side or up and down motion ,as if you direct a heatgun on a chip constantly in one none moving position then you risk ecessively heating the chip to a point of breaking or melting it internaly.I never use flux any more either as it tends to pop/crackle when heated to a point which explodes the solder balls and either blows them up totaly or decreases their size.If ever doing anything to clean solder use isopropyl to pour on not flux and wait until dried by air before you continue,for this project i did not pour isopropyl under the chips though.

    I have had the K-R42 skinned in kevlar i'd like to thank complete console repair for making a remarkable job .The project is now complete,all i will have to wait for now is to get temperature readings to take some results.

    I have recently tested the K-R42 with antutu benchmarek and the score is quite impressive,it got 17128 it's just below the samsung galaxy s3 which scored 18000.
    Last edited by PHYSC; 30 October 2013, 20:14.
    What is the world if you don't explore?

    #2
    One question:
    Do you blow the air into the device or do you transport it outside (because of the back pressure I think it would be the better way and for the other components it would be better because of unacceptable heating)

    Because for the power for the fan, try samething like a USB y-cable (if 5V is enough)....
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    Comment


      #3
      IT'S FINE

      Originally posted by no_spam_for_me View Post
      One question:
      Do you blow the air into the device or do you transport it outside (because of the back pressure I think it would be the better way and for the other components it would be better because of unacceptable heating)

      Because for the power for the fan, try samething like a USB y-cable (if 5V is enough)....
      I think it should be fine mate,the fan is blowing in but as the fan is above leaving a gap around the underside it gives room for any air flow to escape,plus the underside is vented to begin with.i think of it in the sense that when i shim laptops their coolers are pretty much enclosed and even so they stay ok in regards to temps after,i have never had 1 returned ever even in 2 1/2 years of doing them,i am a computer repair technician i train for 1 day a week at a computer repair shop here in the uk, i have done this for 3 years now,i am more the help than a trainee these days though as i know more than enough to get by as a technician.But back to the point after shimming the K-R42 and i compare that to shimming laptops laptops do have far less air airflow.Laptops also have little clearence between the platform they sit on on the rubber feet of the laptop base and the fan intake beneath, wheras my K-R42 has an exposed fan with a gap and base ventilation to.So i think it's going to be fine,but for peace of mind i need to find an application way or command line way to test the temp on the cpu/gpu (soc).I do use a printer 12v dc power supply for the fan so it does have it's own standalone power supply unit this is just for the fan,i forgot to mention that sorry.The shims and copper oversized heatsink alone will reduce the degrees of that excess heat and bear in mind that the device never even had a fan prior to modification and to make matters worse it was a cheesy alloy heatsink any way not to take anything away it was adequate for the job just about,I did a similar mod in some senses with an ouya i own, i am on a youtube channel i made called "ouya shimming" you will have to forgive the poor quality video and my crap commentation though lol as i am no tv personality,for the ouya though i used a massive copper shim and shims for the ram as well + i added in a internal 5v laptop fan with a standalone power supply (usb charger cable in usb to phone charging plug, it never budges over 51c playing games for hours at a time and the airflow in an ouya case i deem as far inferior in coparison to a K-R42 case in a K-R42 case there is clearence between the board and lid and underside of the motherboard and the base of the case,i trust this mod with the K-R42 as much as i do with my ouya cooling mod.However the setup for the heastsink on an ouya is quite different in relation as they are soldered which i overcame with a modification to lift it higher for a large shim to fit,even so the thesis for both cooling mods is pretty much the same.
      Last edited by PHYSC; 31 October 2013, 01:56.
      What is the world if you don't explore?

      Comment


        #4
        I have no issue with heat on my device, but if I would do what you did, I would have the heat sink on top of the CpU then a small fan mounted right on top of the heat sink, then I drill many small (15-20) holes right on top of the housing where the fan is. The fan should blow "upward" toward the holes. Your design will work super fine...but kind of clumsy and over kill...lol. Any way great job!

        Comment


          #5
          CHEERS

          Originally posted by buhohitr View Post
          I have no issue with heat on my device, but if I would do what you did, I would have the heat sink on top of the CpU then a small fan mounted right on top of the heat sink, then I drill many small (15-20) holes right on top of the housing where the fan is. The fan should blow "upward" toward the holes. Your design will work super fine...but kind of clumsy and over kill...lol. Any way great job!
          Overkill is right up my alley mate,i just wanted a more fluent gaming and menu/web surfing experience which it does provide,it's excellent now and gets some decent benchmarks for what it is,it's not as tegra but on the antutu benchmark test it score 17128 closing in on the samsung galaxy s3 at 18000.
          What is the world if you don't explore?

          Comment


            #6
            HEATSINK

            Originally posted by buhohitr View Post
            I have no issue with heat on my device, but if I would do what you did, I would have the heat sink on top of the CpU then a small fan mounted right on top of the heat sink, then I drill many small (15-20) holes right on top of the housing where the fan is. The fan should blow "upward" toward the holes. Your design will work super fine...but kind of clumsy and over kill...lol. Any way great job!
            The heatsink is on top of the shims attached to both the cpu and ram chips the shims thus behave as a double heatsink a sort of 1.2mm heatsink attached to the larger asrock heatsink,but as far as the fan attached to the heatsink goes then it is not worth it for the size of fan you could place on it,if i were to mount one it could only realy match the heatsink size and therefore the heat dissapation would be dramaticaly reduced to next to 1/4 the total heat dissapation as it stands at present,plus little fans have a lesser rpm as well as size,the other factor to account for then is the wire placement as it barely clips the lid at present.Put 2 wires into the equasion and it won't let the lid shut hence the position and the way up the fan sits as if it sat vice versa the wires would appear sticking out of the top of the fan,i get the point your making but look at way the pc fans sit they pull air in and the side blows it out normaly,but you can consider the vented base as the exhaust and the force of an 80mm fan believe me it will push the air that's cool around the board and out the holes aroung the edge of the fan where it meets the case as the gap is mm's deep all the way around it,this will allow it to cool without allowing time for the heatsink or possibly even allowing just the shims to heat to any significant extent.The box supposedly hits 40c stock i doubt it borders anywhere near that sum but until i can hard test or software test the temp who knows what it might be getting to temp wise? This i just have to know asap.
            What is the world if you don't explore?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by PHYSC View Post
              Overkill is right up my alley mate,i just wanted a more fluent gaming and menu/web surfing experience which it does provide,it's excellent now and gets some decent benchmarks for what it is,it's not as tegra but on the antutu benchmark test it score 17128 closing in on the samsung galaxy s3 at 18000.
              Hey, what you did is great... but the Antubu benchmark has nothing to do with your mod. My T-R42 which is same as K-R42 except has bluetooth, I scored OVER 18000 everytime with Antubu ver4(latest version) and stock 4.2 firmware. Just saying it, with no means of competing with anyone...

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by buhohitr View Post
                Hey, what you did is great... but the Antubu benchmark has nothing to do with your mod. My T-R42 which is same as K-R42 except has bluetooth, I scored OVER 18000 everytime with Antubu ver4(latest version) and stock 4.2 firmware. Just saying it, with no means of competing with anyone...
                Ok,the score i just went on what was said in a article on this site with scores said to be between 15 and 17 thousand.
                What is the world if you don't explore?

                Comment


                  #9
                  at me too a K-R42 was very hot(after 45-60 minutes of using),it's all because of the fact that the top does not contain any openings for hot air outlet
                  , I did like this ..Click image for larger version

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                  perhaps it is not so beautiful,but also a very effective : after 3 hours of use(hd movie etc), the device is a bit warmer
                  k-r42 Board TN-BX09_V.2.1 2013/05/31 ,wifi RTL8188ETV,
                  rom 1.0.4 (kitkat) old revision Wasser

                  Comment


                    #10
                    NICE

                    Originally posted by pes1313 View Post
                    at me too a K-R42 was very hot(after 45-60 minutes of using),it's all because of the fact that the top does not contain any openings for hot air outlet
                    , I did like this ..[ATTACH=CONFIG]3901[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3902[/ATTACH]
                    perhaps it is not so beautiful,but also a very effective : after 3 hours of use(hd movie etc), the device is a bit warmer
                    Fair play mate doesn't look half bad,i was debating neon green my self for mine,but my mate did it in kevlar for free in the end as he does console skinning,to be fair he told me he'd do the K-R42 for £5 or £10 if anyone in the dudley area wants it done,they are complete console repairs,amblecote.

                    The vents i got away with drilling out as i cut a hefty chunk of the lid out completely on mine,it all went t@ts up though when i scored the case hence the requirement to skin it,i was going to get it done any way,but i could have gone with the green had i not scored it.
                    What is the world if you don't explore?

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