AML S802 case modding - Show your mod's to cool it down :-).

[hectowalrus]

Be aware that if you're using 104k4/Fin1.6 you may have false/unreliable/crazy temps reported, don't be too confident in them...

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See my MSI agp 8x mod




I'm not particularly MSI fan, I just had 2 old southbridge heatsinks in stock, I had to place them strategically to be able to close the box again (can't see MSI when it's closed)
Sure there's not much contact between stock and screwed heatsinks (used some thermal paste though), it's still passive with no new holes, but it seems to be effective (about 10°C less in both idle/burn) and more inertia makes temperature to rise much slowly. More, I feel the heat is well spread on sides of the box, that was the goal.

Good use for old MSI heatsinks Did you change the CPU thermal pad to thermal paste as well? I would say that it is the weakest link in the original setup. The thermal pad is super thick and probably just about anything conducts heat better than it. I would rather use mustard or tooth paste between the CPU & HS than the original heat pad

As you said the temperature values seem to be strange with 1.6 ROM. Sometimes they look quite realistic but the more I test, the more I think they're not right. For example sometimes the temp may drop from 75C to 40C in two seconds. Idle temp changes from 40 to 60 without any reason. Temp under ultimate stress gets sometimes lower over time.

I really do not now what the real core temp is, but I should have pretty damn good contact between the HS and CPU as the HS is lapped and there is thin layer of silver paste between. My HS will get to max 52C measured from top with quite accurate IR meter during long lasting stress test.

One thing that really surprises me is that the box gets actually hotter from the bottom side where a metal plate is located. There is a thermal pad between the PCB and the metal plate. Some people say that the metal plate is just for adding weight but I think it also takes part in getting rid of the heat.

[zoelechat]

Good use for old MSI heatsinks Did you change the CPU thermal pad to thermal paste as well? I would say that it is the weakest link in the original setup. The thermal pad is super thick and probably just about anything conducts heat better than it. I would rather use mustard or tooth paste between the CPU & HS than the original heat pad

As you said the temperature values seem to be strange with 1.6 ROM. Sometimes they look quite realistic but the more I test, the more I think they're not right. For example sometimes the temp may drop from 75C to 40C in two seconds. Idle temp changes from 40 to 60 without any reason. Temp under ultimate stress gets sometimes lower over time.

I really do not now what the real core temp is, but I should have pretty damn good contact between the HS and CPU as the HS is lapped and there is thin layer of silver paste between. My HS will get to max 52C measured from top with quite accurate IR meter during long lasting stress test.

One thing that really surprises me is that the box gets actually hotter from the bottom side where a metal plate is located. There is a thermal pad between the PCB and the metal plate. Some people say that the metal plate is just for adding weight but I think it also takes part in getting rid of the heat.

Yeah, I had previously replaced thermal pad by paste a few days before any "modding". I even wondered if I couldn't replace the other pad under mainboard as I use non-conductive and very thick paste (Arctic Ceramique) but I finally thought it would be too "dirty". Like you said, plate is hot so it must do a minimum its job

About temperature behavior, I did a report in Tronsmart section if you're interested, dunno if you seen it as you don't own Tronsmart version:

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.php?13763-Different-firmware-different-behavior

If you want pertinent temperatures to be reported by probe (and also more/normal performance), just downgrade

[hectowalrus]

Yeah, I had previously replaced thermal pad by paste a few days before any "modding". I even wondered if I couldn't replace the other pad under mainboard as I use non-conductive and very thick paste (Arctic Ceramique) but I finally thought it would be too "dirty". Like you said, plate is hot so it must do a minimum its job

About temperature behavior, I did a report in Tronsmart section if you're interested, dunno if you seen it as you don't own Tronsmart version:

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.php?13763-Different-firmware-different-behavior

If you want pertinent temperatures to be reported by probe, just downgrade

Actually I just stumbled upon that thread yesterday, and it made me investigate those temp readings more carefully. Interesting finds!

I also believe there is something wrong with the 1.6 Finless ROM. I had previously original stock rom and I think it was smoother. This one has weird lags every now and then, especially when having multiple applications open at the same time. I have not tried 1.5 or other custom ROMs.

Normal Antutu gives me good results. I think I got about 32K at best. Antutu X got me only something like 17-18K, but after I installed CPU fix for 800Mhz min frequency, I got 21-22K. That is weird. AFAIK it should not improve maximum performance at all..

[no_spam_for_me]

'Enzotech CNB-R1' HS mod

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.php?13901-Modded-Tronsmart-Vega-Standard-Cooling-chapter&p=189207#post189207

[Nowandlayda]

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...207#post189207 . haha this is a joke right? i think his next step should be to water cool by submerging his messed up box in coolant!

[no_spam_for_me]

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...207#post189207 . haha this is a joke right? i think his next step should be to water cool by submerging his messed up box in coolant!

Or place it inside a freezer

But he really have many problems with (over)heating since he get this device...

[Nowandlayda]

that's when you should return it or atleast do research on cooling.

[MINIX]

Hello, it's not necessary for MINIX's, just make sure you don't put it over a hot surface.

"Leave me alone!"

[dlangejc]

AML S802 case modding - Show your mod's to cool it down :-).

Hello, it's not necessary for MINIX's, just make sure you don't put it over a hot surface.

"Leave me alone!"

What is the heat on the CPU and GPU if I might ask on the X8's?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[MINIX]

What is the heat on the CPU and GPU if I might ask on the X8's?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mild. The heatsink is large enough to handle things.
Plus we're the only brand shipping with a proper thermal control kernel right now.

[dlangejc]

AML S802 case modding - Show your mod's to cool it down :-).

That's good to know, thank you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[cerm78]

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...207#post189207 . haha this is a joke right? i think his next step should be to water cool by submerging his messed up box in coolant!

I just had some freetime and some money lying around

[Nowandlayda]

haha definitely do not submerge your box in coolant. I'm about to TEC (peltier) cool my box with a cheap USB can cooler I got for xmas 5 years ago. Should have time in a week or 2. I'll take pics when I'm done. Water cooling really is not practical. The principle behind water cooling is that coolant traveling over the heatsink has to be cooled. That means you need long hoses (with peltier or air cooling) to give it time to cool before traveling back over the heatsink. this means you will turn your tiny box into a fullsized desktop pc sized box (unless you wish to have a bunch of hoses running out of your box and around your tv). look up peltier cooling.

[no_spam_for_me]

... Plus we're the only brand shipping with a proper thermal control kernel right now.

Believe me that will be the first I will check ...
I will also stress the system like I have done at the s89...

[hectowalrus]

haha definitely do not submerge your box in coolant. I'm about to TEC (peltier) cool my box with a cheap USB can cooler I got for xmas 5 years ago. Should have time in a week or 2. I'll take pics when I'm done. Water cooling really is not practical. The principle behind water cooling is that coolant traveling over the heatsink has to be cooled. That means you need long hoses (with peltier or air cooling) to give it time to cool before traveling back over the heatsink. this means you will turn your tiny box into a fullsized desktop pc sized box (unless you wish to have a bunch of hoses running out of your box and around your tv). look up peltier cooling.

I don't think that a peltier is a good idea with this box. There is a reason why peltier elements are rarely used nowadays, even with desktop computers. I have played with peltiers quite a lot and they take lots of juice if you want to see serious temperature drop. If you are planning to get all that electricity from the on-board USB-port, you'll probably run into problems with the power supply etc. AND more amps means much more heat, so you'll have to get even bigger heat sink and fan to get rid of that extra heat. Even a small peltier will generate much more heat than the CPU itself!

I would just use a big heat sink with a fan (and good heat paste) and improve overall ventilation. Anything else is IMO excessive. Water cooling with such low power device is like shooting flies with a shotgun

My modification is very modest and still the HS temp won't get much past 50C under heavy stress, and I don't even have a fan. My core temps are obviously higher (depends much which ROM I use), but I really do not believe the core temp readings as the HS temp is so much lower. Even though the stock cooling is very bad, I believe that many of these "heat issues" are actually software issues. Just think about it: there are many phones with more processing power and they are not having such heat issues and they are totally lacking ventilation and heat sink. This CPU is not using much power even at 100% load and it does not take that much to dissipate that heat.