Need help ASAP with firmware for "DIAOTEC J22" cyx_809III v5_1 20140726

[sawbones999]

Ok, so it sounds like your device is ready for mask mode. In this mode you can completely wipe the device's NAND flash and start fresh.

First thing you'll probably want to do if you haven't already is download the rockchip driver assistant which will make sure all your USB drivers are correctly installed. Next I would recommend that you download the rockchip android tool 2.3 (Actually any version 2 will be fine, could be 2.1, 2.33, etc.) It is much easier to do this with rk android tool 2 than with the 1.X batch tool.

If you can do all this with a laptop near your TV and the device connected to the TV, things will be much easier. You will see why toward the end.

OK, now the hardware fun begins. Make sure everything is unplugged from the device (except for the HDMI if you are doing this by the TV), now connect the otg cable to the otg port but not yet to your computer. Open the rockchip android tool 2.X and click on the upgrade firmware tab.

You are going to have to short pins 7 and 8 on the NAND chip. That is the one labeled SanDisk in your second pic.

Turn the device around so that the NAND chip is facing up, and the word SanDisk is upside down. The pin closest to you on the right should be pin 1.

Take something sharp and pointy (I used a knife) and count up from pin 1 until you reach 7, now place the tip of the knife between pin 7 & 8. While doing this, insert the usb OTG cable into your computer. I have to admit here that I may have shorted more than just pin 7 & 8 because it is so small. Doesn't seem to have caused damage, even after multiple attempts.

If all goes well, windows will recognize the usb device and begin installing drivers. At this point you can stop shorting the pins. If it didn't work try it again. If you are having trouble with this after several attempts google it. I found a post with pics.

Hopefully your drivers installed OK and now the android tool will say something like "Found one MASK device." That's exactly what we want. Now you can also connect the power USB port to the power adapter to be sure that the board is getting enough power.

Now you will need a ROM. If you have a backup good, if not, and you're sure that we have the same version I recommend the one I linked to most recently.

So, you're in android tool on the upgrade firmware tab. Click the firmware button and then select the firmware image you wish to use. It will load and give you some info about the ROM.

Now click on eraseflash. Note this is deeper than a hard reset, this is going to blank your device.

Watch the status on the right. Once it says that it has completed then click on the upgrade button. This will start flashing the new ROM. It will disconnect and reconnect several times. This is normal, just follow the progress on the right. When it says something like flash checked 100% ok, resetting device, or something like that you are good.

DON'T unplug the power at this point. Your device is rebooting into recovery and it will create some partitions and format them at this point. This is why it's better if your HDMI is connected so you can watch for this to complete before unplugging the power or moving it.

After it completes this step it will reboot and begin first boot (Long time on the boot animation, follwed by "installing programs" once it's booted).

If the HDMI is not connected you can't really tell when it is finished, so I would probably give it like 10 minutes after it resets after the flash. Just to be on the safe side. If you can watch on HDMI it's easy to tell when first boot is finished.

That's it! You just flashed a ROM from Mask mode.

Now to get root, open settings, about device, and click on the build number until it says you are a developer. Go to developer options and turn on usb debugging.

Go to USB settings and click connect to PC. Drivers will install. If you still have the android tool open it will say "Found one ADB device".

Just run kingo root, click on root device, wait until it finishes and reboots, and you are done!

I hope that this helps you and good luck!
Cheers!
-SB

[paultje_007]

Great explination! Thanks! Will try in the morning, now midnight and bedtime here...
Btw: isnt 1.7 batch tool easier? Ive seen videos and they only load the IMG file and press 'update' and all is installed....!? Sound like the rk tool needs a lot of manual input?
(seen it on http://youtu.be/sSjaB522QJs )

Let u know tomorrow morning mate!

[sawbones999]

Great explination! Thanks! Will try in the morning, now midnight and bedtime here...
Btw: isnt 1.7 batch tool easier? Ive seen videos and they only load the IMG file and press 'update' and all is installed....!? Sound like the rk tool needs a lot of manual input?
(seen it on http://youtu.be/sSjaB522QJs )

Let u know tomorrow morning mate!

You could just open the firmware and click upgrade in android tool 2, but since you are having so many problems already I think it's probably better to choose eraseflash first.

It's really easy to use android tool 2. I probably made it sound hard by being as precise as possible with my descriptions.

Good luck again!
Cheers,
-SB

[sawbones999]

It's really the same as what you described, except you need it to go into mask mode bc the usb ports are not responding and the only extra step is eraseflash

Cheers,
-SB

[paultje_007]

Hey SB, sorry for the late reply. I tried all morning but no luck yet.
Did all your steps, but RK Android Tool 2.3 keeps saying NO DEVICE FOUND.
On screen when I placed the 8&9 pin together I didn't see a startup, so thats good. Plus I found a forum where a user claims PIN 8&9 are correct (http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...e-MK808/page12 post 84082) and that PIN 5&6 is are TF-BOOT Pins....

I might have accidentally pressed PIN 7&8 aswell but saw the device just boot up normally. So PIN8&9 indicating the device didn't boot up would suggest that it should be found by USB on the PC.

Unfortunately nothing happend.

Yet, I also did PIN 5&6 on the other side, and can see that the blue LED that goes off. So I think these PINs are power-reset pins. (?)

Anyway. Now re-booting the device normally, all I see is "Smart TV" and no further startup... (No "google TV and swirling google colored bubbles, anymore ) Would this mean the chip is completely fried???

I read somewhere that when the blue LED still lights up, the device can still be unbricked. True?
So I think my laptops USB ports are just to much in conflict....with the ADB driver. Therefore the device remains not found.
I had to go to work but I uninstalled all USB ports on my laptop and restarted it to let windows reinstall them again. After completion, restarted it again. And reinstalled the google USB driver again with Rockchip Driver Assistance.
My laptop is very very slow, and had to leave for work, so did a very quick jump at pin 8&9 again, but laptop kept loading...and nothing happened.

I'm gonna try again tonight.... keep you posted.
If you have any suggestions more I'll try tonight.
Cheers!

[sawbones999]

Are you jumping the pins while it is already connected to the USB, or jumping them and while jumping inserting the USB. That's what you want.

I read pins 7 & 8 before, I'm pretty sure. Honestly I was probably shorting something like 7-9 or 6-8 because it's so small and I can't see them that well. Plus it's hard to hold a knife on the thing and plugin the USB at the same time while keeping them shorted until the drivers install without the the stick wiggling around.

Could be pins 6 & 7 according to this thread http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...9-III-TV-Stick

As I said before I wasn't exactly precise with it, myself. I tried several different positions before I finally got it to work properly.

I don't think that pin 8 & 9 are correct as the thread you referenced is for the 808, not the 809iii. Try 6 & 7, at least that comes from a thread about similar hardware.

By the way I don't have a SanDisk chip on mine. It is Hynix, but if we have the same board revision it would have to be pin compatible.

Good luck again!
Cheers,
-SB

[sawbones999]

This is from the thread you referenced before

"TECHNICAL: On most NAND chips by shorting pins RB and R/E together or in some cases RE and CE, it makes the processor boot up and think there is no NAND memory and puts it into MASK ROM MODE. It also "may" erase NAND."

I looked at the pinout for that chip and mine and in both cases, pin 6 was no connection, pin 7 was R/B which is a constant voltage drain for signaling memory state. Pin 7 is RE or read enable and pin 9 is CE or chip enable.

So I still believe it should be 7 & 8. That would pull read enable to low, making the chip unreadable. Check first to make sure what you're jumping it with is conductive. Try a small screw driver instead of a knife if you have to. Make sure that you are making solid contact until it is fully powered on and the drivers have installed themselves.

If that doesn't work I would try to short pins 7, 8, & 9. They're very close together so it should be easy. This would pull read enable and chip enable to low, causing them both to be disabled and the CPU to enter mask mode.

Cheers,
-SB

[paultje_007]

I see btw. on that thread you sent, on the picture, that he connected pin 6&7 on the other side. Did you see that? (see the small darker dot in the left top corner of his chip. looks like that is the official pin1 mark....not the bigger grey dot inthe right bottom corner....)

I will try tonight, both 6/7 and 7/8 on both left and right side....
Plus i will try if I can get a laptop from a friend with clean USB ports

Let u know....

[paultje_007]

PS: I also found this: (see image)

CE is at PIN 1 ???
(I wished I could read chinese )

[sawbones999]

I wouldn't go poking around on the other side of the NAND. Especially without even looking up the datasheet for your specific flash chip.

Usually they are very easy to find, all you have to do is Google the numbers and letters written on the chip. Sometimes add the word datasheet to your search. You will find a pdf with very specific information about the chip, including a pinout and explanation of how the device operates and what those pins do.

What you are calling pins 7 & 8 "on the other side" are most likely pin 34 & 35 or something and who knows what you'd be doing. It could be voltage in or something and if you short it to an i/o pin you could fry the whole chip.

Good luck, be careful!
Cheers,
-SB

[paultje_007]

Sorry mate, tried everything. Nothing worked. I don't even get a signal through the HDMI anymore.
(My LG tv has all HDMI ports greyed out if nothing is in it. If something is in it with power it will light up. That it still does when I power up the CX919II. But it doesn't receive any other signal anymore.)

I think I have really fried it...

Will do some more testing in the morning, but I silently have given up hope...
Next step is to try and sent it back.

PS: I had been searching all evening at work for a datasheet. Nothing found...
Here are all the signs on the chip:
SanDisk
P229071991
SDTNQGAMA-008G
WAC5210071
TAIWAN

In case you like to do more research...

Let u know if a miracle might happen!

[sawbones999]

I found a datasheet for part number P229071991 mmc flash but is a ball layout and doesn't translate to the tsop package.

It does seem like the datasheet for the device is particularly elusive. I think i would have followed the pinout for equivalent NAND chips. If it runs in the same hardware board should have most if not all of the same pins in the same place. Usually something like that will cross reference with a standard pinout and that is why chips from various manufacturers can be substituted based on cost and availability.

I'll keep looking for that datasheet. You may need to replace the NAND chip to get function again if you're not getting any power LED or anything.
Were you shorting pins on other parts of chip than the the 7, 8, 9 area?

Have you tried shorting the pins on the board on the opposite side from the NAND, as described by others for getting it into bootloader mode? It's near the CPU.

Cheers,
-SB

[sawbones999]

I found a cross reference to this part number MT29F32G08CBACA on a Russian site. I downloaded the datasheet and the pinout is almost the same as for my chip. The biggest difference is, instead of no connection on pin 6, it is a second R/B pin.

Mask mode should be the same, or maybe 1 or 2 pins different depending on the chip's logic.
You still need to connect r/b to chip enable (ce) or read enable (re) to trick the system into thinking the device is inaccessible.

All the pins on the opposite side are clock, voltage, and data lines. Probably not a good place to be shorting pins.

I hope you can fix it.
Cheers,
-SB