AML S802 case modding - Show your mod's to cool it down :-).

[no_spam_for_me]

... If you are planning to get all that electricity from the on-board USB-port, you'll probably run into problems with the power supply ... Even a small peltier will generate much more heat than the CPU itself!...

+1

... My core temps are obviously higher (depends much which ROM I use) ...

http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.php?13763-Different-firmware-different-behavior&p=190080&viewfull=1#post190080

[Basinus]

So, next try to modify Tronsmart S89. From my opinion it is necessary to make the modification, because original heatsink is really lightly (15 gr.) and not propper connected to the SoC. I make the experience that the box becomes really warm at the bottom due to the heatplate.

So i decided to do three mods:

• replacement of the origin heatsink. The Enzotech heatsinks have a good quality but are really expensive. So I decided to take a cheaper (6 €) full copper heatsink from a VGA cooler: COOLINK VGA-Kuehler SWAP. The heatsink have a weight of 68 gr. which is really a heavy weight for the box. The heatsink have to be modified by the new wholes for the pins to fix it on the board, I have also removed the fan (screwed). All installation material was included in the retail package, this inludes also the thermal paste.
• Open bottom case to enhace bottom heatplate functionality. I do this after some tries with a Dremel and a mini buzz saw blade. Enhancement had be done by three RAM chipset heatsinks (part of the retail package). Be carefull to open the bottom, heatsink plate is fixed to the plate.
• Enhace airflow function to add some holes in the case.

And now the results:


I recommend to change only the hole near to the chipsets.



I sticking gaskets from a water tab at the screw holes. You can easily locate the right position of the heatplate with a magnet.






... and the holes for the air-flow in the top case. Looks a little bit more "TRON"

I recognized following effects:
- temperature at the bottom of the case goes down significantly, therfore the copper heatsink becomes really warm.
- AnTuTU score increased by 700 points from (wrong) 31500 to 32200.
- air flow works, tested with a light woolen twine.

[TMx]

.

Love this Well done

[no_spam_for_me]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzIpCABWcFU

[rapalax]

Non-Mod FTW

Check out my NON-Mod solution!

[chris613]

Check out my NON-Mod solution!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6908[/ATTACH]

LoL - What difference in temp did you note with this non-mod?

I would prefer to run it this way but I am too scared I will stress the HDMI connector and need to get out my soldering iron to revive my box. In fact it has not moved an INCH since I first installed it because I'm so paranoid about the connector.

[Basinus]

because I'm so paranoid about the connector

Same to me, so I decided to do all my mods without removing the board from the case. It's a little bit tricky but at the end easy possible. To do so you need new plastic hinges to fix the heatsink after replacement again on the board. The trick to remove origin heatsink is to cut hinges near to the top, remove the heatsink, lift the hinges and cut again as near as possible to the board with a nipper. Than you can shake the remaining two pieces of the hinges out of the box. There is enough space between the bottom of the case and the board.

The problem with the HDMI connector is, that he is not fixed th the case. The HDMI connectors normally fits really good and when put it in or out and you tilt a little bit the HMI plug, all the mechnical strenght has to be hold by the connection of the HDMI bush with the mainboard. This is pretty s...
I have removed and reconnect my HDMI wire a lot of times, but I'm really carefully to do this without any strenght.