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Minix X8-H not powering up

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    #31
    My X8-H wasn't DOA, but the power adapter is making a fairly loud humming noise. After reading about how long this RMA is taking with them, does anyone have any experience or knowledge on a replacement power adapter I can purchase so I don't have to deal with an entire RMA over a somewhat faulty power supply?

    Don't mean to thread hijack, I just noticed there has been mention about power supply issues here and maybe I can get away without starting a whole thread for this issue. Sorry if I that offends anyone. Thank you.

    EDIT: Issue solved, picked up a replacement power supply from radio shack and everything is fine. Humming noise is completely gone. Really happy I can use my Minix without worrying about imminent explosions or RMAs.
    Last edited by dems86; 03 July 2014, 04:17.

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      #32
      AW: Minix X8-H not powering up

      Originally posted by gjs999 View Post
      you really need a meter --
      1. check voltage of power supply
      2. check the fuse on the circuit board just behind the power input socket .

      If those check out ok then I think you might be stuff - sorry
      I ordered a meter today and will check as soon as I receive it

      Comment


        #33
        Alright, both the PSU and the Fuse show 5v.

        So I take I can conclude that my device is smoked? Anything left to try?

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Arbelzapf View Post
          Alright, both the PSU and the Fuse show 5v.

          So I take I can conclude that my device is smoked? Anything left to try?
          Are you getting 5v at both ends of the fuse -- ( as I don't know your level of electronics knowledge i have to ask - no insult intended )
          or can you measure 5v else where on the circuit board -- gather the blue led isn't coming on -- should be easy to see out of the case .
          Could try moving the jumper for auto power on/off

          Comment


            #35
            Hey thanks for your time. I still have a lot to learn when it comes to electronics, so I'm fine if people make sure I do things properly.

            I can do basic soldering and can dick around with stuff on a breadboard, but I don't know electronics too well, sadly

            I put the test leads to both ends of the fuse and got 5v on the display.

            I already tried setting the jumper, with no luck.

            Comment


              #36
              Just a thought - when you put it back in the case you haven't squashed the led and the legs aren't touching each other or part of the PCB !

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by Arbelzapf View Post
                ...I put the test leads to both ends of the fuse and got 5v on the display....

                Do I understand it right you get the 5V if the fuse is between the both test leads of your voltmeter?
                If yes => your fuse is killed (I don't know how to say at English)
                => because if the fuse is ok you will get 0V because you don't have a different potential at it because the fuse have 0 ohm...
                => but if you get 5V it means the fuse have entless ohm
                RK3288 Devices
                - Overview BOX (LINK !)
                - Overview STICK (Dongle) (LINK !)

                MINIX NEO: Z64 W/A - (Intel Z3735F); X8-H Plus - (Amlogic S812H); A2 Lite (sponsored by minix.com.hk)
                UGOOS UT3S (4/32GB with fan) - FW 2.0.6 - (RK3288) (sponsored by GearBest.com)
                Tronsmart Draco AW80 Meta (2/16GB) - FW v2.0rc3 - (Allwinner A80) (sponsored by GeekBuying.com)
                Beelink / UBOX R89 - FW 111k4110_1219 - (RK3288) (sponsored by Netxeon (Beelink))

                RK3188: pcb => "CH001 1332 TN-BX09_V2.1" (K-R42 / CS918...) => wasser KK 1.0.3 (old rev)
                Fly Mouse Mini Wireless Keyboard with 2 mode learning IR remote 'iPazzPort KP-810-16'

                Comment


                  #38
                  @no_spam: Yes, you understood correctly. What does that mean for me? Is there hope?

                  @gjs999: I don't think so. The LED is at the edge that goes in last if you want to make sure that all external connectors are aligned properly when putting the pcb back in. I hope that sentence made sense.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    the meter you have got - is it a multimeter and measures resistance -- if so set to ohms - ensure no power to unit - and then connect across the fuse -- it should read zero or near as damn it -- if its open circuit then its the fuse thats at fault.
                    The last thing to try - unplug the battery and leave over night

                    If you hadn't touched the case i'd say ship back -- best of luck

                    Comment


                      #40
                      What does it mean? First I think you need a new fuse, second solder equipment (soldering iron, desoldering braid and solder) and then I think you can fix it...

                      http://www.****.de/itm/Lotkolben-Fei...item4853637734
                      http://www.****.de/itm/Fein-Lotkolbe...item20e7349970
                      (but the pump can be a problem)
                      http://www.****.de/itm/1-62-m-Entlot...item58b1f93567
                      http://www.****.de/sch/i.html?_odkw=...nn&_sacat=3247

                      I don't know with fuse you need... what is printed at the fuse?
                      RK3288 Devices
                      - Overview BOX (LINK !)
                      - Overview STICK (Dongle) (LINK !)

                      MINIX NEO: Z64 W/A - (Intel Z3735F); X8-H Plus - (Amlogic S812H); A2 Lite (sponsored by minix.com.hk)
                      UGOOS UT3S (4/32GB with fan) - FW 2.0.6 - (RK3288) (sponsored by GearBest.com)
                      Tronsmart Draco AW80 Meta (2/16GB) - FW v2.0rc3 - (Allwinner A80) (sponsored by GeekBuying.com)
                      Beelink / UBOX R89 - FW 111k4110_1219 - (RK3288) (sponsored by Netxeon (Beelink))

                      RK3188: pcb => "CH001 1332 TN-BX09_V2.1" (K-R42 / CS918...) => wasser KK 1.0.3 (old rev)
                      Fly Mouse Mini Wireless Keyboard with 2 mode learning IR remote 'iPazzPort KP-810-16'

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by gjs999 View Post
                        the meter you have got - is it a multimeter and measures resistance -- if so set to ohms - ensure no power to unit - and then connect across the fuse -- it should read zero or near as damn it -- if its open circuit then its the fuse thats at fault.
                        The last thing to try - unplug the battery and leave over night

                        If you hadn't touched the case i'd say ship back -- best of luck
                        Sorry guy, but it's one of the worst ideas you can have...
                        Because the ohm meter uses it's own voltage, so NEVER use it at the PCB!!!!
                        RK3288 Devices
                        - Overview BOX (LINK !)
                        - Overview STICK (Dongle) (LINK !)

                        MINIX NEO: Z64 W/A - (Intel Z3735F); X8-H Plus - (Amlogic S812H); A2 Lite (sponsored by minix.com.hk)
                        UGOOS UT3S (4/32GB with fan) - FW 2.0.6 - (RK3288) (sponsored by GearBest.com)
                        Tronsmart Draco AW80 Meta (2/16GB) - FW v2.0rc3 - (Allwinner A80) (sponsored by GeekBuying.com)
                        Beelink / UBOX R89 - FW 111k4110_1219 - (RK3288) (sponsored by Netxeon (Beelink))

                        RK3188: pcb => "CH001 1332 TN-BX09_V2.1" (K-R42 / CS918...) => wasser KK 1.0.3 (old rev)
                        Fly Mouse Mini Wireless Keyboard with 2 mode learning IR remote 'iPazzPort KP-810-16'

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by no_spam_for_me View Post
                          Sorry guy, but it's one of the worst ideas you can have...
                          Because the ohm meter uses it's own voltage, so NEVER use it at the PCB!!!!
                          If there is a blown fuse, something caused it to blow. That means there was a short somewhere, without finding the cause of the short, replacing the fuse would be futile.
                          MK818B, T428, ATV 1220, CS918S, TV01, S89H, R89, ADT-1, MK808B Plus, MINIX X8-H Plus, Tronsmart Orion R68

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by clarkss12 View Post
                            If there is a blown fuse, something caused it to blow. That means there was a short somewhere, without finding the cause of the short, replacing the fuse would be futile.
                            sure, but he wrote, it happened after unplugging (but of cause normally doesn't care) and for a 'newbie' it's the only way to try to change the fuse and see what will happen...
                            BTW: "SF 3,15A" and I think SF means super fast, so maybe it was only the unplugging...
                            RK3288 Devices
                            - Overview BOX (LINK !)
                            - Overview STICK (Dongle) (LINK !)

                            MINIX NEO: Z64 W/A - (Intel Z3735F); X8-H Plus - (Amlogic S812H); A2 Lite (sponsored by minix.com.hk)
                            UGOOS UT3S (4/32GB with fan) - FW 2.0.6 - (RK3288) (sponsored by GearBest.com)
                            Tronsmart Draco AW80 Meta (2/16GB) - FW v2.0rc3 - (Allwinner A80) (sponsored by GeekBuying.com)
                            Beelink / UBOX R89 - FW 111k4110_1219 - (RK3288) (sponsored by Netxeon (Beelink))

                            RK3188: pcb => "CH001 1332 TN-BX09_V2.1" (K-R42 / CS918...) => wasser KK 1.0.3 (old rev)
                            Fly Mouse Mini Wireless Keyboard with 2 mode learning IR remote 'iPazzPort KP-810-16'

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Measuring across a fuse won't damage it - the voltage from the meter is small and we're not measuring across ICS which are vulnerable .
                              When you modified the case did drill right through or just thin it out - is you handy work visible externally !

                              Comment


                                #45
                                In any case some close up pictures would help others to help you as well. You can point out the fuse in the picture.

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