Hi,
The Pro L runs pretty hot and the Pro + is not far behind.
If you aren't being too demanding and/or don't live in a hot climate you may not have any problems with your particular box.
First thing on the Pro+ that you can do is remove the "chrome" embellisher from the lid area.
You have to remove the rubber pad feet to access the 4 screws that keep on the lid. Same on other models but others don't have the embellisher.
Removing it and replacing the lid gives a small gap all round that helps a bit but doesn't help very much.
If your box doesn't have an embellisher then you need to lift the lid with some sticky foam pads/tape or similar (or ??)
Standing the box vertically helps some more as there is better air flow through the box - sadly lacking in the Mecool design specs !
Best to stand on the left rear corner for good flow and access to ports - The Diamond look.
External laptop type coolers or fans can also be used ... and then there are open heart surgery options.
Removing the heatsink is a process of twisting (a lot of times) until it comes loose. Video part.1
Replacing with better glue may help a little, but fitting a bigger HS is not much cost and can be very beneficial.
Standard HS on the + is 22x22x06mm while the L version is 28x28x06mm
My favourites are
Pro+ with no extra holes (better still if box kept on edge)
22x22x15
40x40x11 (ref. Jancales advice) better with hole(s)
while - with hole
28x28x20 - needs a 30mm hole in the lid ! and works exceptionally well due to the chimney effect - flat box, no need to mount vertically.
37x37x24 - bigger hole - better chimney effect !
Pro L options
22x22x15
40x40x11 has to be fitted carefully at 45 degrees to normal (diamond effect) to get free space due to layout on board - needs hole(s).
28x28x20 - again with the hole in the lid !! works exceptionally well due to the chimney effect - flat box.
37x37x24 - bigger hole - better chimney effect !
If you don't want to or can't remove the Heatsink then a bottom plate is another passive option though to make this work you need to remove the middle of the base to get any free air to cool it.
Aluminium plate 1.6mm thick and 65x45mm works nicely. NEW Size mounted fore-aft keeps it away from the Wi-fi Bluetooth aerial - when mounted across the box it was too close to the aerial and stopped it working properly.
Copper is only about 2°C better and more expensive - but it does look nice (though no one will see it you will know !).
Plates were fixed with 2mm thick HY100-2 Thermal Silicone Heatsink Pad 4W/mK - (Gelid 12W/mK is ~6x the price ??)
Pad is 11°C worse than MX2 paste - see SOC T-Pad result below.
Heatsinks tested with MX2 Paste
Final fix is with HY910 Thermal Glue or Arctic Silver Epoxy - Note both are permanent !
Active cooling - Fan (Fitting Video)
30mm Pi Fan (5V) running at 3.3V from the free UART pads (UART plug is not fitted)
This is really neat and the best for serious cooling - Power is constant even in OFF Mode so I fitted a micro slide switch in line to switch off when not needed/wanted.
The fan uses the smallest amount of power and is fully silent, running at 3.3V (listening at over 1 metre away)
You can of course mix and match or refuse to be drawn into modding and leave well alone.
Summary of experimental results using Stress CPU App
Updated + 30mm Fan Options
Extra INFO.
Pro L with 40x40x11 HS + 30mm Fan (@3.3V) With Lid Hole + CU-BasePlate ~> 48°C running StressCPU-100%
RED is Throttling Level
22x22x06 ~ 3.1g (2904mm³)
22x22x10 ~ 5.1g (4840)
22x22x15 ~ 5.5g (7260)
28x28x11 ~ 7.2g (8624)
28x28x20 ~ 15.1g (15680)
40x40x11 ~ 17.7g (17600)
37x37x24 ~ 31.1g (34656)
The Pro L runs pretty hot and the Pro + is not far behind.
If you aren't being too demanding and/or don't live in a hot climate you may not have any problems with your particular box.
First thing on the Pro+ that you can do is remove the "chrome" embellisher from the lid area.
You have to remove the rubber pad feet to access the 4 screws that keep on the lid. Same on other models but others don't have the embellisher.
Removing it and replacing the lid gives a small gap all round that helps a bit but doesn't help very much.
If your box doesn't have an embellisher then you need to lift the lid with some sticky foam pads/tape or similar (or ??)
Standing the box vertically helps some more as there is better air flow through the box - sadly lacking in the Mecool design specs !
Best to stand on the left rear corner for good flow and access to ports - The Diamond look.
External laptop type coolers or fans can also be used ... and then there are open heart surgery options.
Removing the heatsink is a process of twisting (a lot of times) until it comes loose. Video part.1
Replacing with better glue may help a little, but fitting a bigger HS is not much cost and can be very beneficial.
Standard HS on the + is 22x22x06mm while the L version is 28x28x06mm
My favourites are
Pro+ with no extra holes (better still if box kept on edge)
22x22x15
40x40x11 (ref. Jancales advice) better with hole(s)
while - with hole
28x28x20 - needs a 30mm hole in the lid ! and works exceptionally well due to the chimney effect - flat box, no need to mount vertically.
37x37x24 - bigger hole - better chimney effect !
Pro L options
22x22x15
40x40x11 has to be fitted carefully at 45 degrees to normal (diamond effect) to get free space due to layout on board - needs hole(s).
28x28x20 - again with the hole in the lid !! works exceptionally well due to the chimney effect - flat box.
37x37x24 - bigger hole - better chimney effect !
If you don't want to or can't remove the Heatsink then a bottom plate is another passive option though to make this work you need to remove the middle of the base to get any free air to cool it.
Aluminium plate 1.6mm thick and 65x45mm works nicely. NEW Size mounted fore-aft keeps it away from the Wi-fi Bluetooth aerial - when mounted across the box it was too close to the aerial and stopped it working properly.
Copper is only about 2°C better and more expensive - but it does look nice (though no one will see it you will know !).
Plates were fixed with 2mm thick HY100-2 Thermal Silicone Heatsink Pad 4W/mK - (Gelid 12W/mK is ~6x the price ??)
Pad is 11°C worse than MX2 paste - see SOC T-Pad result below.
Heatsinks tested with MX2 Paste
Final fix is with HY910 Thermal Glue or Arctic Silver Epoxy - Note both are permanent !
Active cooling - Fan (Fitting Video)
30mm Pi Fan (5V) running at 3.3V from the free UART pads (UART plug is not fitted)
This is really neat and the best for serious cooling - Power is constant even in OFF Mode so I fitted a micro slide switch in line to switch off when not needed/wanted.
The fan uses the smallest amount of power and is fully silent, running at 3.3V (listening at over 1 metre away)
You can of course mix and match or refuse to be drawn into modding and leave well alone.
Summary of experimental results using Stress CPU App
Updated + 30mm Fan Options
Extra INFO.
Pro L with 40x40x11 HS + 30mm Fan (@3.3V) With Lid Hole + CU-BasePlate ~> 48°C running StressCPU-100%
RED is Throttling Level
22x22x06 ~ 3.1g (2904mm³)
22x22x10 ~ 5.1g (4840)
22x22x15 ~ 5.5g (7260)
28x28x11 ~ 7.2g (8624)
28x28x20 ~ 15.1g (15680)
40x40x11 ~ 17.7g (17600)
37x37x24 ~ 31.1g (34656)
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