Ugoos UT2 - Reviews?

[Kingpin]

Check out ****, I bought 50 for about $3.

http://www.****.ca/itm/251251976950?...84.m1497.l2649

southpole

Thanks Southpole for the link. That's like 49 more then I need :-). But order placed.

[flhthemi]

Thanks Southpole for the link. That's like 49 more then I need :-). But order placed.

Now we know a few places to get a switch!

On another note: My UT2 came today!!! Setting up Beyond XBMC 3.4 on it now....

[Kingpin]

Now we know a few places to get a switch!

On another note: My UT2 came today!!! Setting up Beyond XBMC 3.4 on it now....

Happy for you! Do you notice a performance difference without the T chip? Think you are really going to enjoy that little box.

P.S. I can hook you up with a reset switch, if the need arises. Got a few extra.

[flhthemi]

Happy for you! Do you notice a performance difference without the T chip? Think you are really going to enjoy that little box.

P.S. I can hook you up with a reset switch, if the need arises. Got a few extra.

Nah, if I feel the need for drilling I'll open it up. Wouldn't want any shavings getting into the board.

I dunno, so far it just seems like the T was faster....
It is already rooted!
I can't get it to pass DT/5.1 on BXBMC on HDMI or SPDIF. Works with MX Player using custom codec.
It recognized my Logitech C310 camera & mic! A big plus! will test Skype later today.

[Mikayu]

There are a fee audio devices in settings. I got spdif working with bxbmc after trying different settings (wasser fw)

[mixterz]

link is for the start button bit correct ?

opened mine and it broke off , black plastic button is hitting tin air now.

have to just keep pressing it with a screw head till it comes on which is a pain.

soldering is beyond me so box is kinda screwed now.

ill keep an eye out for the ut3

[Kingpin]

link is for the start button bit correct ?

opened mine and it broke off , black plastic button is hitting tin air now.

have to just keep pressing it with a screw head till it comes on which is a pain.

soldering is beyond me so box is kinda screwed now.

ill keep an eye out for the ut3

No, that link is for a reset button.

[flhthemi]

It's true - It's not over till the fat lady sings!

Just when you think a bad thing is over, there's one more chapter that turns it around.

If you've read this thread from the start you know I got a UT2 with a RK3188T chip on my first attempt to buy a UT2. It was sent back to China in March, I got a refund of my money and then purchased a second one via geekbuying.

So yesterday I'm sitting around watching a movie and the doorbell rings and its the mail person (yup, a big fat lady) with a package for me and she says it's returned as undeliverable. I recognize the box it's in so I already know what's inside. That other "T" chipped UT2.

I'm NOT spending another 26.00 to try to return it again and since I have my money back and have not heard a word from the seller, it's now in my bedroom with the wasser 1.25 ROM and Flumpster's BXBMC and seems to be running fine.

But I will spend 10.00 bucks to buy a US power supply for it. Anyone know what size that tip is? 3.5mm? Figure 5V 3Amp should do the job.

[lokster]

Just when you think a bad thing is over, there's one more chapter that turns it around.

If you've read this thread from the start you know I got a UT2 with a RK3188T chip on my first attempt to buy a UT2. It was sent back to China in March, I got a refund of my money and then purchased a second one via geekbuying.

So yesterday I'm sitting around watching a movie and the doorbell rings and its the mail person (yup, a big fat lady) with a package for me and she says it's returned as undeliverable. I recognize the box it's in so I already know what's inside. That other "T" chipped UT2.

I'm NOT spending another 26.00 to try to return it again and since I have my money back and have not heard a word from the seller, it's now in my bedroom with the wasser 1.25 ROM and Flumpster's BXBMC and seems to be running fine.

But I will spend 10.00 bucks to buy a US power supply for it. Anyone know what size that tip is? 3.5mm? Figure 5V 3Amp should do the job.

How you doing although you didn't buy it from me I'm a direct usa seller of Ugoos products I can ship u a power supply pm me so I can help you our were trying to uplift the ugoos brand and customer service and support is our focus

[flhthemi]

How you doing although you didn't buy it from me I'm a direct usa seller of Ugoos products I can ship u a power supply pm me so I can help you our were trying to uplift the ugoos brand and customer service and support is our focus

PM sent and thank you very much!

[flhthemi]

PM sent and thank you very much!

I got the PS today and just wanted to say thank you again! This is the sort of customer care that makes me want to buy more product from Ugoos and you can bet that will happen in the future.

[daniel58]

Power and front mounted power button switch on Ugoos UT2

Yes that is what I can simply deduce based on what Hogger from log entry #99 was referring to and the pictures posted of the primary printed circuit board picture; sounds like there is probably a separate smaller secondary printed circuit board directly underneath the front mounted black power button:

"When taking my unit apart, my push button on the front fell apart which consisted of 3 very small pieces that went in my lap and on the floor, it was a small miracle that I was able to it back together"

I believe if you ask Hogger nicely he may be able to hopefully help you out; since he also describes having the front power button slide off the front panel unexpectedly;

Hogger basically described there are basically three small pieces underneath the front power button that apparently are responsible for actuating; what you are presently alternatively performing using your metal screw head to temporarily effectively bridge the conductive path formed on the secondary printed circuit board that is probably directly underneath the black plastic power switch button that fell out on you and Hogger;

it sounds like these are potentially SMC type of electro-mechanical component chassis parts that can be potentially procured to effect a more longer term solution to your above described power switch activation problem;

now while more than somewhat a bit inconvenient; at least one is able to effectively actuate the power switch via a somewhat rather clever but effective; MacGuyver like temporary manual override electro-mechanical based solution;

now with all the above already being said; one could also rig an electro-mechanical switch that would enable one to do the same thing as what one is doing with the metal screw head effectively;

by simply running some very thin wirewrap wire from each of the SMC printed circuit board contact pads to an electronic momentary switch; that would take over the electronic physically performing the switching functionality of the metal screw head you are now performing;

naturally one would probably have to run this electronic momentary switch out of the hole left where the black plastic power button used to reside; but one at least could still see the intensely bright red and blue leds which are probably located very near the SMC printed circuit board near the front mounted black plastic power button;

in the meantime however of course it could just prove easier to use some thin conductive foil from the back of a common gum wrapper for example; and using that thin conductive foil; to wrap that around the eraser end of a common wooden pencil and then tightly taping off its end around the shaft of the wooden pencil; near the wooden pencil eraser end;

then all one would have to do is literally pick up that thin conductive foil tipped wooden pencil eraser end and merely simply tap, probe and/or prod the already identified above appropriate desired SMC electronic contact pad(s) for the desired necessary contact time; to simply and easily achieve effective simple routine activation of the above Ugoos UT2 unit described above in question; even if one does not ultimately solder and install that electro mechanical as described above?

in the meantime let me know how the thin conductive foil wrapped around the pencil idea works out for you; as it should work fine and should be a heck of a lot easier and safer than using a metal screw head; which I agree could be a real pain at times in all likelihood; especially if done on more than a short term temporary basis of course; good luck in whatever choice you wind up in implementing in the end of course; hope my above described suggestion(s) proves helpful to your black plastic front mounted power button dilemma on both a short as well as longer term basis.

link is for the start button bit correct ?

opened mine and it broke off , black plastic button is hitting tin air now.

have to just keep pressing it with a screw head till it comes on which is a pain.

soldering is beyond me so box is kinda screwed now.

ill keep an eye out for the ut3

[flhthemi]

I'm done with my UT2s. No new firmware and a lack of an alternative version that functions 100% has driven me to Zotac and Win 8.1. When my second Zbox gets here, back in the box they both go.

What a shame.....

[abdul_pt]

You can try this - http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...l=1#post277142

[flhthemi]

You can try this - http://www.freaktab.com/showthread.p...l=1#post277142

When BT is working, I WILL try it!

Thank you for posting this. I've got two UT2s one has a T-Chip and it looks like this might be the way to go.