Overheating Mecool M8s Pro L and Pro + (and others ?) - Options ???

[shuot]

The best would be that someone build and sell an upgrade kit

With a new case, embedded fan, heat sink, connexions and instructions :-)

Otherwise, Mecool should correct their design flaw.

[Novato]

I got that fan posted from china for $1.25 total, I think it should be the same worldwide included post found on E bay dot com
Look forward to your results.

Yes, but the country where I live is always a bit more expensive, it costs about $4.25 but the dollar costs 3x the value of my local currency.

[P.X]

Nice metal lid with some vents, plus a bigger heatsink would help.

[Novato]

The best would be that someone build and sell an upgrade kit

With a new case, embedded fan, heat sink, connexions and instructions :-)

Otherwise, Mecool should correct their design flaw.

Well it's but I think they all forget like a pressure cooker, not just the Mecool box. It would be nice if someone made Kits like RasbRaspb Pi3, but we should understand that they are totally different projects with different audiences. Generally the Raspbarry Pi3 that receive Case are to be used as emulator of old games. Mecool's only way of enforcing this would be to change the whole design of the board, or adding an internal fan already in the factory.

[Freaking]

Nice metal lid with some vents, plus a bigger heatsink would help.

Can u give us out some links for the fan, heatsink and whatever else is needed? I think I seriously need to mod mine since ambient temperature sometimes hits 40c around here.

[P.X]

Can u give us out some links for the fan, heatsink and whatever else is needed? I think I seriously need to mod mine since ambient temperature sometimes hits 40c around here.

Search The Bay UK or COM or? using item number ...

My Fan item number 222616196610 ($1.45 - others available from $1.21)

Optional better heatsink
My Heatsink - item number 292062678333 ($1.42 for 2x)
Needs
HY910 Thermal glue - 132406581708 permanent glue ($2.56 5g tube)
or
MX2 Thermal paste (non-permanent) needs fan to press heatsink when lid screwed down.
Plus optional
Fan grill if needed/wanted - 262494677895 ($2.49 for 2x)

Need soldering iron
Need small screwdriver
Need resistor to slow fan if using preferred USB 5V switched supply
1W 33-62ohm (bigger is slower-quieter) - Item number 302258789669 ($0.99 for 10x try a note to seller to supply selection from range - select mid value for order)

HTH
e&oe

Oh yes ... Useful stuff !
Craft knife / Stanley knife
38mm hole saw is useful if mounting on the 40mm HS
30mm hole saw if using std. HS

[Novato]

Exactly!

[P.X]

Exactly!

Oh yes ... Useful stuff !
Craft knife / Stanley knife
38mm hole saw is useful if mounting on the 40mm HS
30mm hole saw if using std. HS

Read the thread from the start for other peoples solutions and more ideas ...

[jebivetar]

My unit still hasn't arrived - it's apparently cleared customs but tracking has gone dark. Likewise, my temp switches are probably a long way out but nice work, P.X., doing the testing legwork.

I did also end up grabbing that same HY910 thermal glue after I couldn't find anyone to sell me Arctic Alumina for a reasonable price.

Need resistor to slow fan if using preferred USB 5V switched supply
1W 33-62ohm (bigger is slower-quieter) - Item number 302258789669 ($0.99 for 10x try a note to seller to supply selection from range - select mid value for order)

I really wouldn't recommend this resistor solution to novices. I think using adjustable buck converters, available at 5 units for a few bucks from that popular auction site or your favorite Chinesium vendor, is much simpler, and a more useful item to have for other purposes.

[P.X]

Really ? I thought a single resistor was about as simple as it gets.

If you want to explain exactly how to use a buck converter that would be interesting for sure.

[jebivetar]

If you want to explain exactly how to use a buck converter that would be interesting for sure.

Buck converters, aka step down converters, take a higher voltage input and spit out a lower voltage output.

The ones I'm talking about are tiny little Chinese PCBs like so https://vgy.me/sSU5ID

The red one is adjustable via the tiny socket potentiometer which you can adjust with a tiny flat screwdriver; the other 2 are set to 5v.

There is a green one that's a tiny bit bigger than those 3 being sold by half a billion Chinese vendors all over the internet as cheap as 5 units for $2.

How to use is pretty self explanatory - connect your inputs and outputs and adjust the voltage. Lower voltage means slower fan speed. You don't really even need to solder for this particular application like you would a resistor, I suppose - you can just wrap your wires through the holes and secure them somehow, maybe with shrink tubing or hot glue or even electrical tape.

You can also get boost modules that take a lower voltage input and spit out a higher voltage output - or even buck/boost modules that do both like so http://www.easternvoltageresearch.co...20_640x385.jpg. With the latter you can even replace that shitty trimpot with a nice potentiometer and make a ghetto variable bench power supply for a few bucks https://vgy.me/orRpTn.jpg

[P.X]

Thanks that is great info so people can see what to do and choose ....

Kinda still think a 10c resistor is easier, but maybe that is just me being really old school

[jebivetar]

Kinda still think a 10c resistor is easier, but maybe that is just me being really old school

Well, you can't buy a single resistor anywhere, except maybe digikey or mouser where they'll rip you off 5000% for a single, and charge you $10 shipping. Then you need a soldering iron, solder, some skills, and a bunch of time.

Or, for the same price as the cheapest lot of resistors you can find, you can get an adjustable buck module, and be ready to go in 5 minutes with no additional speciality tools - and for twice that price you can get 5.

[clarkss12]

Well, you can't buy a single resistor anywhere, except maybe digikey or mouser where they'll rip you off 5000% for a single, and charge you $10 shipping. Then you need a soldering iron, solder, some skills, and a bunch of time.

Or, for the same price as the cheapest lot of resistors you can find, you can get an adjustable buck module, and be ready to go in 5 minutes with no additional speciality tools - and for twice that price you can get 5.

Where do you derive the power from?

[jebivetar]

Where do you derive the power from?

Same places as for the other method, or if you don't want to solder anything, you could just strip a USB cable with a male connector, secure the red (5v/+) and black (gnd/-) wires to the buck/boost inputs and plug the USB cable into the board.

Or, if you don't want to use your USB slot, and don't want to use a USB hub, you can use any AC/DC converter you have lying around, or can find in the recycle bin - just snip off the connector and connect the wires to the module.