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Overheating Mecool M8s Pro L and Pro + (and others ?) - Options ???
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Originally posted by gianni281 View Post
Thanks. I'll give that a go and keep my fingers crossed for a software issue and not a hardware failure.
One other way to VERIFY that it is a hardware problem, install LibreELEC or CoreELEC and that will tell you for sure....... Those OS's NEVER freeze or reboot.MK818B, T428, ATV 1220, CS918S, TV01, S89H, R89, ADT-1, MK808B Plus, MINIX X8-H Plus, Tronsmart Orion R68
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Originally posted by clarkss12 View Post
Most of the old timers on here can tell you the horror stories about these sicks/boxes from 4, 5,6 years ago. If you could go a day without several reboots or a dozen freezes, you had a good device. Thankfully, those days are gone, and these boxes are very stable now. Usually, the freezing issues are due to bad drivers that some apps install.
One other way to VERIFY that it is a hardware problem, install LibreELEC or CoreELEC and that will tell you for sure....... Those OS's NEVER freeze or reboot.
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My Frankenstein's temperatures are getting better, probably because the Sekisui tape has bonded better.
20c idle, which is maybe 1c higher than ambient, and 42c streaming 1080p Acecast for a few hours, which is pretty demanding since it grabs chunks from hundreds of peers, assembles them, and serves them to VLC on the fly.
So my recommendation would be to forget resistors, buck/boost converters, thermal switches and fans, and soldering shit where you shouldn't. Ditch the ugly ass enclosure too.
Instead, grab a couple of small heatsinks for RAM and EMMC, and a hefty one with a 35-40mm base, and secure them with some Sekisui tape, or whatever, I don't think it matters that much.
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Originally posted by jebivetar View PostMy Frankenstein's temperatures are getting better, probably because the Sekisui tape has bonded better.
20c idle, which is maybe 1c higher than ambient, and 42c streaming 1080p Acecast for a few hours, which is pretty demanding since it grabs chunks from hundreds of peers, assembles them, and serves them to VLC on the fly.
So my recommendation would be to forget resistors, buck/boost converters, thermal switches and fans, and soldering shit where you shouldn't. Ditch the ugly ass enclosure too.
Instead, grab a couple of small heatsinks for RAM and EMMC, and a hefty one with a 35-40mm base, and secure them with some Sekisui tape, or whatever, I don't think it matters that much.
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Originally posted by jebivetar View PostMy Frankenstein's temperatures are getting better, probably because the Sekisui tape has bonded better.
20c idle, which is maybe 1c higher than ambient, and 42c streaming 1080p Acecast for a few hours, which is pretty demanding since it grabs chunks from hundreds of peers, assembles them, and serves them to VLC on the fly.
So my recommendation would be to forget resistors, buck/boost converters, thermal switches and fans, and soldering shit where you shouldn't. Ditch the ugly ass enclosure too.
Instead, grab a couple of small heatsinks for RAM and EMMC, and a hefty one with a 35-40mm base, and secure them with some Sekisui tape, or whatever, I don't think it matters that much.
See Post 2 ... 38 - 40mm heatsinks for a dollar or 2 are noted as the best passive options.
I am sure your magnificent blue HS is a leftover from an earlier project - cost about 18-20 USD when new ! now sold out.
Just taking off the lid would probably solve most peoples issues, but not everyone likes the open box look. It is the cheapest simple solution.
Removing the heatsink is probably more dangerous than soldering to the large USB pins on the underside (ask Ronnie about heatsink/box death )
Everyone to their own - must say I do love your Big Blue HS (Stegosaurous ? Mohawk ?? Franken-sink ??), but I also love my slimline 30mm fan and flat grill
e&oe
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Originally posted by P.X
Sekisui Tape is interesting - seems thin which is a good start.
See Post 2 ... 38 - 40mm heatsinks for a dollar or 2 are noted as the best passive options.
I am sure your magnificent blue HS is a leftover from an earlier project - cost about 18-20 USD when new ! now sold out.
Just taking off the lid would probably solve most peoples issues, but not everyone likes the open box look. It is the cheapest simple solution.
Removing the heatsink is probably more dangerous than soldering to the large USB pins on the underside (ask Ronnie about heatsink/box death )
Everyone to their own - must say I do love your Big Blue HS (Stegosaurous ? Mohawk ?? Franken-sink ??), but I also love my slimline 30mm fan and flat grill
e&oe
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Originally posted by P.X View Post
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You also know that this was not the intent of the text, correct? I thought, maybe I should spell it out in the text, but I thought later, he will understand what I said. Yes, it's just a suggestion, if he wants to challenge himself to do something new he might try this. I think he's been challenged all this time, whoever sees his videos knows that.
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