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Heatsink modding
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Just got my X7 yesterday, loving it so far, but after reading this thread and seeing what more you can do to keep it cool, I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GYVRRJ6 for underneath the two boards, and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004230RUO for underneath the aluminum plate next to the chips, along with http://www.****.com/itm/261297525508 for on top of the aluminum plate and http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-.../dp/B000OGX5AM to affix the heatsinks to the top of the thin aluminum plate.
Does all of that seem correct?
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Originally posted by SpoonThief View PostJust got my X7 yesterday, loving it so far, but after reading this thread and seeing what more you can do to keep it cool, I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GYVRRJ6 for underneath the two boards, and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004230RUO for underneath the aluminum plate next to the chips, along with http://www.****.com/itm/261297525508 for on top of the aluminum plate and http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-.../dp/B000OGX5AM to affix the heatsinks to the top of the thin aluminum plate.
Does all of that seem correct?
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Originally posted by SpoonThief View PostJust got my X7 yesterday, loving it so far, but after reading this thread and seeing what more you can do to keep it cool, I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GYVRRJ6 for underneath the two boards, and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004230RUO for underneath the aluminum plate next to the chips, along with http://www.****.com/itm/261297525508 for on top of the aluminum plate and http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-.../dp/B000OGX5AM to affix the heatsinks to the top of the thin aluminum plate.
Does all of that seem correct?
Most users have used 1mm thermal pads. I do not know if they are right, so I will have to check it myself upon receiving my device, but most of the times the usual thermal pad thickness is 0.5-1.5mm.
Arctic Silver 5 is a normal thermal paste (something like toothpaste), it just provides almost perfect thermal contact between two flat surfaces, which have to be mechanically mounted and compressed together. To bond things permanently you need a two-part thermal adhesive paste (something like glue), or a double-sided thermal adhesive tape (sticky tape). Thermal adhesive paste may be impossible to remove without damaging components, while thermal adhesive tape is easier to remove.
Arctic Silver 5 is still being a very popular thermal paste, being a top-range product 10 years ago. Nowadays, most other products are better in every aspect. Also, it is slightly capacitive, thus being somewhat dangerous. If you want more information about thermal pastes, let me know.
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Originally posted by loko View PostBeware! The device's total height is 25.6mm (2.56cm). A 5mm (0.5cm) thermal pad seems too thick to fit in place. You will probably not be able to close the case.
Most users have used 1mm thermal pads. I do not know if they are right, so I will have to check it myself upon receiving my device, but most of the times the usual thermal pad thickness is 0.5-1.5mm.
, let me know.
1. 100x100x5mm thermal pad on bottom of M/B. This will contact the bottom plate.
2. Replace both thermal pads on heatsink with 1.5mm pads. I do not use paste, just a very sticky pad.
3. Prior to remounting the heatsink, give it a slight downward bow so the pads make good contact with the chips.
4. Place 4 15x15x9mm heatsinks on existing heatsink over CPU with good thermal paste.
5. Place 2 15x15x9mm heatsinks over PM chip
Thats it... Simple, cheap and works like a charm!!
Rob
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Pics or it did not happen
No, seriously Rob, would you post some pics? I would like to see it...
thanks in advance and...promise to put up pics when my materials get here!
Originally posted by robmich View PostSo, here is the list of what I did for the cooling mod. Note: I don't think the overall quality of what you use is key, rather that you do the below items. I never see above 50c:
1. 100x100x5mm thermal pad on bottom of M/B. This will contact the bottom plate.
2. Replace both thermal pads on heatsink with 1.5mm pads. I do not use paste, just a very sticky pad.
3. Prior to remounting the heatsink, give it a slight downward bow so the pads make good contact with the chips.
4. Place 4 15x15x9mm heatsinks on existing heatsink over CPU with good thermal paste.
5. Place 2 15x15x9mm heatsinks over PM chip
Thats it... Simple, cheap and works like a charm!!
Rob
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It is weird that some use 1mm thermal pads on the bottom, while others use 5mm ones, and some use 1mm thermal pads on the chips, while others use 1.5mm ones and bend the metal plate, yet they all report that they match perfectly.
I plan to modify a large 900x900x15mm heatsink by drilling it appropriately and attaching it mechanically directly to the chips.
From what I am reading in this thread, I guess I can avoid all this procedure, since any simple procedure seems adequate, but I will do it anyway, because I like modding.
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Originally posted by loko View PostBeware! The device's total height is 25.6mm (2.56cm). A 5mm (0.5cm) thermal pad seems too thick to fit in place. You will probably not be able to close the case.
Most users have used 1mm thermal pads. I do not know if they are right, so I will have to check it myself upon receiving my device, but most of the times the usual thermal pad thickness is 0.5-1.5mm.
Arctic Silver 5 is a normal thermal paste (something like toothpaste), it just provides almost perfect thermal contact between two flat surfaces, which have to be mechanically mounted and compressed together. To bond things permanently you need a two-part thermal adhesive paste (something like glue), or a double-sided thermal adhesive tape (sticky tape). Thermal adhesive paste may be impossible to remove without damaging components, while thermal adhesive tape is easier to remove.
Arctic Silver 5 is still being a very popular thermal paste, being a top-range product 10 years ago. Nowadays, most other products are better in every aspect. Also, it is slightly capacitive, thus being somewhat dangerous. If you want more information about thermal pastes, let me know.
Scooby used a 5mm pad under the boards In his first post, I was just going by that.
Thanks for the help with the thermal compound/adhesive explanation. I ordered http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GIM9V8 to affix the heatsinks to the aluminum plate, as I may want to remove them at some point, and it seems easier than mixing the two tubes of stuff.
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I wonder if that large bottom thermal pad everyone opted for is for good. There are many holes on the bottom cover, and using a large bottom thermal pad just closes them all, preventing free air flow. As we all know from computers, proper air flow inside the box is critical, and while some measure can help a component locally, it can have negative effects on the total results.
You can measure the bottom mainboard temperatures while stressing the unit. I bet under the power unit and probably under the processor the mainboard should be warm enough. Beyond these spots, I suppose most mainboard parts may be cool enough.
Would it be better to use a small square piece just under the power unit, and let the rest of the mainboard free, so the air can circulate freely around it? That would possibly let more cool air to enter the device and drift away more heat from the side holes.
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Originally posted by loko View PostI wonder if that large bottom thermal pad everyone opted for is for good. There are many holes on the bottom cover, and using a large bottom thermal pad just closes them all, preventing free air flow. As we all know from computers, proper air flow inside the box is critical, and while some measure can help a component locally, it can have negative effects on the total results.
You can measure the bottom mainboard temperatures while stressing the unit. I bet under the power unit and probably under the processor the mainboard should be warm enough. Beyond these spots, I suppose most mainboard parts may be cool enough.
Would it be better to use a small square piece just under the power unit, and let the rest of the mainboard free, so the air can circulate freely around it? That would possibly let more cool air to enter the device and drift away more heat from the side holes.
Before mounting bottom pad - cold alu case and hot cpu, after - warm alu case and significantly cooler cpu about minus10 ° C difference!!! There is still enough airflow, but the important thing is that a big part of the heat goes directly outside by thermal conduction. and this works without any noise.
You can read this in earlier posts. But try your proposal and publicate the results here.
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Originally posted by Scooby-Doo View PostEasy explanation:
Before mounting bottom pad - cold alu case and hot cpu, after - warm alu case and significantly cooler cpu about minus10 ° C difference!!! There is still enough airflow, but the important thing is that a big part of the heat goes directly outside by thermal conduction. and this works without any noise.
You can read this in earlier posts. But try your proposal and publicate the results here.
I agree that you can benefit by the bottom cover working as a large heatsink. This is what I have thought from the beginning. I just thought that if you use a large thermal pad, you close all the holes, so the heat of the bottom cover will have to dissipate through the air under the device going to the sides. If you use a small thermal pad under the processor and another one under the power unit, the heat is going to be transferred again to the bottom cover, but there will be air circulation through the holes, so the heat of the bottom cover can go upwards then sideways and create an internal wind stream which could enhance the total thermal behaviour.
Under any way, if I had to use a large thermal pad, I would cut it the Scooby-Doo way and not the robmich way which closes the gap between the two PCBs totally preventing air circulation. The edge of the thermal pad that is blocking the gap could be cut and probably be used over the smaller PCB, or not at all, since I do not think that this smaller PCB needs serious cooling.
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