Overheating Mecool M8s Pro L and Pro + (and others ?) - Options ???

[Novato]

yes, if I had the right tools I would certainly buy it to test. Link here

[P.X]

yes, if I had the right tools I would certainly buy it to test. Link here

Fun, but overkill is my guess, and probably dangerously big and heavy !!!

[lepa71]

Are those getting hot only when decoding 4k? I'm looking for something to run on 1080p tv.

[azn-spidey]

Are those getting hot only when decoding 4k? I'm looking for something to run on 1080p tv.

It'll get hot regardless of what you do, even letting it idle. Just gets hot faster the more intensive you use it. So will end up too hot and crashing sooner playing back 4k content compared to 1080p.

[spaceship9876]

Are those getting hot only when decoding 4k? I'm looking for something to run on 1080p tv.

Amlogic S805X is a 1080p-max chip although i haven't seen any products released yet.

[Jancales]

P.X When you open up an m8s pro+, under the pcb is 4 x 4 cm space which raised edges ( for better word ) that can hold a 1 mm copper plate.

The space is right under the processor, and the total space between casing and pcb is 3mm.

Those raised edges are there for a purpose and I assume mecool considered what I'm thinking.

If you should have a 4 x 4 x 0.1 cm copper plate and a 2mm thermal pad the size of the processor, and that combined with a 40 x 40 x 11 heat sink, I think will work wonders.

Reason I believe in this is because i have had the Beelink M18, which has a metal casing, and has such a thermal pad under the pcb touching the metal casing.

The heat sink of a Beelink M18 is only 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.5 but it will never run hotter than 65°C in tropical Thailand.

Take note the M18 has no vents at all, it's completely closed.

Removing the thermal pad under the pcb increase the temperature by 10°C right away,

[P.X]

P.X When you open up an m8s pro+, under the pcb is 4 x 4 cm space which raised edges ( for better word ) that can hold a 1 mm copper plate.

The space is right under the processor, and the total space between casing and pcb is 3mm.

Those raised edges are there for a purpose and I assume mecool considered what I'm thinking.

If you should have a 4 x 4 x 0.1 cm copper plate and a 2mm thermal pad the size of the processor, and that combined with a 40 x 40 x 11 heat sink, I think will work wonders.

Reason I believe in this is because i have had the Beelink M18, which has a metal casing, and has such a thermal pad under the pcb touching the metal casing.

The heat sink of a Beelink M18 is only 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.5 but it will never run hotter than 65°C in tropical Thailand.

Take note the M18 has no vents at all, it's completely closed.

Removing the thermal pad under the pcb increase the temperature by 10°C right away,

Hi,

Check Page 1
You will see photos of a Base Plate - 65x50x1.6mm Aluminium or Copper that I fitted.
You need to open a hole in the base as well to allow the heat out.
see pics.

[Jancales]

Hi,

Check Page 1
You will see photos of a Base Plate - 65x50x1.6mm Aluminium or Copper that I fitted.
You need to open a hole in the base as well to allow the heat out.
see pics.

Yes I see now, but I assume that was with stock heat sink, as I don't see any mention of a mod

When I look at the results I see they are similar as with the 40x40x11 heat sink. Combine both and I'm sure you will settle around 65°C

[P.X]

Yes I see now, but I assume that was with stock heat sink, as I don't see any mention of a mod

When I look at the results I see they are similar as with the 40x40x11 heat sink. Combine both and I'm sure you will settle around 65°C

Post #1
Graph of Pro L - Cu Plate added to various HS sizes all with lid hole appropriate to HS, and base hole.

Al plate is much the same but a lot cheaper !!

[Jancales]

Post #1
Graph of Pro L - Cu Plate added to various HS sizes all with lid hole appropriate to HS, and base hole.

Al plate is much the same but a lot cheaper !!

I see, but take note that I'm, talking about the Pro+.

The Pro+ with 40x40x11 horizontal and no other mods realized 72°C according to your graph. Add to that the bottom plate and you will at least drop another 5°C, even without cutting a hole in the base.

The ProL is in my opinion more suitable as a cooking hob than as a tv box, and your results confirm that once again.

I was considering ordering ProL for sale, as it would be a nice upgrade to the Pro+, but after looking at your results again I'm gonna give that a miss.

Since I sell those boxes you will understand that holes etc are no option for me, and even with those drastic mods it seems the temperature of that box is still not manageable.

Any suggestion for a S912 budget box on which you can't boil eggs while watching a movie?

[wackybruce]

I have been toying with the idea of adding a 92x10mm gpu fan and reusing the top housing cutting a hole like you did in your video and adding a mesh or guard there to make it look legit. Might solder the fan to the back of pcb usb pins. Tested the fan with a usb cable quickly and it really quiet and providing good airflow. I'll be testing with some different thermal pastes and pads once I can get round to it. I'm thinking a softer pad like fulipoly or thermal grizzly might be suitable for the back of the pcb.
I'll give an update and some temps once I get round to it as my box is currently hard bricked I think tryna see if I can find a way to bring it back to life.

[P.X]

I see, but take note that I'm, talking about the Pro+.

The Pro+ with 40x40x11 horizontal and no other mods realized 72°C according to your graph. Add to that the bottom plate and you will at least drop another 5°C, even without cutting a hole in the base.

The ProL is in my opinion more suitable as a cooking hob than as a tv box, and your results confirm that once again.

I was considering ordering ProL for sale, as it would be a nice upgrade to the Pro+, but after looking at your results again I'm gonna give that a miss.

Since I sell those boxes you will understand that holes etc are no option for me, and even with those drastic mods it seems the temperature of that box is still not manageable.

Any suggestion for a S912 budget box on which you can't boil eggs while watching a movie?

The plastic box on these devices is really good insulation.
Lifting the lid slightly and using vertically allows a reasonable airflow.

The Pro L is nice because I like a Bluetooth remote, and on one occasion a file I had would only play properly with the better spec SOC !!

A metal lid (at least) would have been a good idea on these boxes (as used on many other boxes)

Looking at other Videostrong offerings the more expensive ones seem to have metal cases ....

[P.X]

I have been toying with the idea of adding a 92x10mm gpu fan and reusing the top housing cutting a hole like you did in your video and adding a mesh or guard there to make it look legit. Might solder the fan to the back of pcb usb pins. Tested the fan with a usb cable quickly and it really quiet and providing good airflow. I'll be testing with some different thermal pastes and pads once I can get round to it. I'm thinking a softer pad like fulipoly or thermal grizzly might be suitable for the back of the pcb.
I'll give an update and some temps once I get round to it as my box is currently hard bricked I think tryna see if I can find a way to bring it back to life.

That fan should work really nicely

[Jancales]

P.X I'm looking to install a fan underneath a box ( not a Mecool) as I think it's more aesthetic that way. I will make 5cm diameter hole in the bottom of the box and mount the 8cm usb fan right to the bottom of the box.

I will leave a 2 cm space under the fan, so will use some footings.

The box has perforations at the sides, but not in the top lid.

What you think would have the most positive effect, let the fan suck hot air out of the box, or let it blow air inside?

[panchovilla]

I have a fan on the side blowing in . Does not seem to go over 80*C.
But, youtube keeps freezing the box after a while .